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2012 VW UP ASG Gearbox problem.....Sensor

14K views 24 replies 3 participants last post by  biggi-up 
#1 ·
This was a brilliant little car although some trouble with gear box from the start, VW always refused to admit to.
Now it’s not starting any more.
I suppose it’s the gear box, is it worth replacing it, could it be exchanged by an only manual one and what are the cost implications.
Any help with the decision making gratefully received.
 
#2 ·
Ah - just replied to your other post, but this one mentions it's not starting anymore. Two possible options:
  • most automatics have what's called an NSS - neutral safety switch - that prevents you from starting the car in anything other than P/N. If this fails, you will not be able to start the car (it's part of the starter motor circuitry).
  • like many others at the moment, the battery has died due to lack of use during shutdown (especially if you're still on the original one)
I have never owned an automatic so can't help with diagnosing the NSS - you may have to talk to your local garage for that one. Battery is an easy check to rule out if you have a multimeter/battery tester.
 
#5 ·
In order to get anywhere with your question you need to get the gearbox interrogated with a diagnostic computer.
If you have home recovery break down cover that would be a way of getting any fault codes read.
If not you need to get it to a garage.
Unless you or someone you know has the ability.
 
#9 ·
Hi there,
Thanks for the update. It's definitely time to get a diagnostic reading from the car; if it can be driven, it does suggest there is an issue beyond the gearbox, even if that has its own issues as well. If you want to do it yourself, you need what's called an OBD-II ('onboard diagnostics - 2') reader; it plugs into a purple port in the driver's footwell, underneath the dash by the door post. If you don't want to go that route, it will need to go to a garage. It is possible the tester you saw the service person attach was an OBD-II reader, but usually they have a large plug and a single cable to a handheld computer (this is just one example: OBD11 Fault Code Reader | Halfords UK). Without those fault codes, we're going to have some difficulty diagnosing the problem, as it sounds like the car is basically driveable.
 
#10 ·
Hi there,
Thanks for the update. It's definitely time to get a diagnostic reading from the car; if it can be driven, it does suggest there is an issue beyond the gearbox, even if that has its own issues as well. If you want to do it yourself, you need what's called an OBD-II ('onboard diagnostics - 2') reader; it plugs into a purple port in the driver's footwell, underneath the dash by the door post. If you don't want to go that route, it will need to go to a garage. It is possible the tester you saw the service person attach was an OBD-II reader, but usually they have a large plug and a single cable to a handheld computer (this is just one example: OBD11 Fault Code Reader | Halfords UK). Without those fault codes, we're going to have some difficulty diagnosing the problem, as it sounds like the car is basically driveable.
Thank you again. You were not mentioned on the Lock Down BBC Learning Schedule.!
I am tempted to go your suggested route of doing the test myself.
Is the OBD-II as inclusive as the test that would be done at a VW garage?
 
#11 ·
I don't think car maintenance currently features on BBC Bite Size, but maybe that's something to consider in the future! :geek: We're all trying to do our bit in the current circumstances, and I'm learning too, so it works both ways.

A little bit of explanation is needed here. The OBD-II standard is supposed to be 'standard' across all cars. What has happened in practice is that, while the diagnostic port is consistent, the error messages that you can read through it fall into 2 categories: generic codes that can be understood by any reader, and many more that are manufacturer-specific. So, if you buy a generic reader from your favourite car parts store, it will be able to report any generic codes and maybe a few specific ones. There is a VW-specific one called VCDS, which you can buy online (I believe there is another one, but I forget what it is called). It is very similar to the readers used in VW garages and roadside assistance vans, and reading the codes is normally the first thing any service person will do when trying to solve a problem.

So, if your problem comes under one of the generic codes, a generic reader will be just fine. If the problem doesn't set off a generic code, or the generic code is so broad it doesn't actually get us any closer to the problem, then you will still need to go to a garage (or get a VW reader). The advantage of the garage is that they will also come up with a solution (hopefully) and arrange for any repairs that are needed. Depending on what the problem is, and your comfort level with doing work on the car, even if we can interpret the codes successfully, you may still need to take it in to a garage for repair. It really depends on how much you want to try yourself, and where you feel your money is best spent.
 
#12 ·
This is probably the minimum you would require:
It will have make and model specific settings.
Or as above better still VCDS.
But.
Getting the codes is just the start. Without some expert knowledge you can be lead astray by these codes.
Lots of individuals and either incompetent or scamming garages throw money at changing components without getting to the route cause. Treating the symptom rather than the cause.
But without this information you are totally in the dark and no one can offer a solution.
 
#13 ·
...as difficult as Virus lock in-let out decision...and thank you for all the time you are spending helping me with this dilemma now knowing it has to go to the garage and something like clickmechanic.com for this problem is not an answer.
The only VW open garage is Colindale, I will have to get to from Muswell Hill.
Can I drive it there just in Manual and do I risk getting stuck.? and should Break down service let deal with it..?
Thanks, a pity I cannot even offer you a virtual reality coffee
 
#15 ·
From what you've said I think your only realistic option is a VW garage. Unfortunately the VW asg isn't very common so even if you were to find say a mobile mechanic they probably won't have the experience and knowledge to figure it out (without throwing random parts and your money at it)
If you could find someone close by to just read the fault codes and report back here someone may be able to help. But as above the fault codes are far from a solution in isolation.
 
#16 ·
Good morning
I will take it to Colindale to have the diagnostic test done.Do you think it’s possible to wait for the result to get an idea what’s involved.
I fear it will be a balancing exercise involving the cost
It’s been such a brilliant car getting me many times to Austria, up and down steep hills and the boot space is amazing.
 
#18 ·
I'm sure garages will do their best, but under the current circumstances they are probably understaffed compared to before and having to take more safety precautions, so things may take longer. Plus, even in normal times it depends on what else is in for repair at the same time, and they're probably hedging their bets on the timing because they don't yet know what sort of issue it is (the same symptoms might require replacing a wire or replacing the gearbox). Normally we'd have the ability to chivvy them along with 'I need to go on a trip' or the like, but at the moment we just have to be patient. Hopefully building up a positive relationship with them now will be beneficial for both of you when things become more normal.
 
#19 ·
Apologies for the delay answering your reply, that made me consider the wider issue and naturally the present situation is a main factor.
I can do without the car for a couple of weeks here and no sign that I can leave England by car, hoping there will be some indication when garages are allowed to function normally again as I would prefer to take it to my usual garage.
I seem to have put my questions on different sections of the forum and so I get the same answers several times.
Do you happen to know how I can change that....besides all your other good and helpful advice.
Many thanks
 
#20 ·
Hi there,
Not a problem. Keep us posted when you are able to take it in and diagnose the problem. There aren't many ASG owners on here, but I'm sure they'd appreciate the info in case they see the same thing.
As for posting in multiple places, there is nothing we as users can do, but the moderators are able to delete posts and move a thread to a more appropriate part of the forum if they think it's in the wrong place. This thread should probably be under 'Engine, Gearbox and Performance', for example, so if you contact one of the moderators (they're listed on the right hand side on the main forum page), they should be able to sort you out.
 
#21 ·
Hi, as you must have gathered I am not one of the High Tech It performers ...too many links ...too many decisions to take.
Thank you for explaining what I can do and I will keep you posted of what’s happening.
Just now I will see if the car starts and on Manual will take me to my house.
 
#22 ·
Hi, two months on and the possibility of a diagnostic test for £150 at the end of July.
As the car had started and drove in manual when the rescue service looked at it,
I tried that today and it worked , immediately drops back to 1, when I slow down but drives on without problem.

?????? Do I go up to 2 or 3 at a particular rev reading.?
I have no idea as there is no noise that would indicate I should change to 2 or 3..
????Will it do more damage to whatever is wrong if I keep driving it only in manual.

At one stage it got itself into automatic and was happy to drive along like that.

More confused now than I was before but I think for now I will take the risk of stalling in the middle of a big busy roundabout.
Any thoughts as always appreciated.
 
#23 ·
Hi @biggi-up,
I have only driven automatics in the States, on gearboxes without a manual option, so in the absence of other ideas from the forum I've read through the relevant section of my manual (p.131-134) and will interpolate as best I can.
In its usual helpful way, under the heading 'Fault in the automated manual gearbox' (p.133) it says if the car won't move when you select a gear, the system has a fault and you should have it checked (🤦‍♀️). However, the manual only gets excited if warning lamps are appearing on the dash panel - which doesn't appear to be the situation in your case. As the call-out mechanic (who has actually had a chance to drive/examine the car, unlike us) seems to think it is road-worthy, and the end of July is still a fair ways off, if you are happy to drive it in manual mode you should be ok (though I wouldn't take it for longer jaunts than you're willing to be stranded should it suddenly decide to have a red/orange warning light fault). Something is clearly physically/electronically confused in there if it can pop back into automatic mode when it feels like it, and so the possibility of it refusing to work at all can't be ruled out.
As for when to change gears in manual mode, I will have to assume it works in the same manner as the (fully) manual gearboxes. I would ignore the change up indicator in the dash panel, as this tends to be based more on fuel economy than road conditions, but keep an eye out for the change down indicator, as on mine that's a pretty good sign the road is more inclined than I thought and I need to drop a gear to accommodate it. The general recommendation for small-engined cars like these is to change up around the 2000rpm mark, which is roughly changing up a gear every 10mph when accelerating (so 1st gear up to 10mph, 2nd up to 20mph, 3rd to 30mph, etc.) - although this will obviously depend on the road (hilly roads will see a lot more 2nd gear, for instance). Try to listen to the engine note - if it's high-pitched and/or whining, you're in too low a gear; if it's a low throb (or the car is starting to vibrate/rev needle approaching 1000rpm) you're in too high a gear. If it's purring like a large-ish cat (rev needle somewhere around 14-1500rpm - I haven't looked recently!), you're good to go. Be prepared to drop a gear if you see a hill coming, especially if you're in 5th. Take roundabouts in 2nd if possible.
Hopefully that will keep you moving until the diagnostic test sheds more light on the problem.
 
#24 ·
Hi P..C
Today I got sidetracked by trying to make the invisible- visible and help the silent find a voice on Zoom, which will connect me with friends and family.

So the car had a rest and my worries too, specially after reading your easily understandable reply with all it’s details.
I will take your advice on board and never leave without a pair of good shoes and a rain jacket.
The engine neither roars nor purrs but I will keep an eye on rpm and turn colour blind should the red light flash up on the dashboard, hopefully not before it’s diagnostic test.

I am very grateful for the time you have taken to clarify my concerns.
Many thanks.
 
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