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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I am not very technically minded so I’m seeking assistance. I have a 66 plate VW up, just had the clutch and flywheel changed Cambell changed and a service, and radiator replaced. I am now finding it difficult to select second gear when coming down the gears. I don’t seem to have the same issue going up the gears from neutral, first, second etc. 3rd, 4th & 5th seem fine.
My question is is this likely to be connected to the work that has just been done? It worked fine for the first 3 weeks following the work, but something doesn’t feel quite right.
I am reluctant just to take it back to the VW dealer in case I end up with a massive bill just for investigating it like I did for the work I’ve just had done.
No noise or grinding when changing gears, so assuming oil level is ok. Nothing dripping either.
Any advice or assistance would be appreciated
 

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When you say "select" do you mean the gears are baulky (difficult to engage) or the gearstick is sloppy and difficult to slot into gear, it sounds like its related to the work done, could be air in the system or a slave cylinder leaking internally, has the clutch fluid reservoir level dropped at all? - does the pedal feel normal? - I'm not sure about the Up but the cable bushes on my Alfa were worn and it lead to a pretty unpleasant and vague change, its always easier to change up than down if the clutch system is not functioning correctly
 

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Would suggest taking it back to the garage that did the work, (which should be guaranteed for 12 months), and ask them to look at the gear change cable adjustment.
How many miles has it done ?
Very unusual to need a clutch, flywheel, cambelt & radiator for a 66 plate.......
 

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The clutch is possibly dragging slightly, which may be as simple as needing to bleed the hydraulics properly - usually worse when selecting a lower gear if that's the issue. Could also be linkage adjustment as above.

What made you decide that the clutch was a problem (and cambelt for that matter) and seek a fix?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for the input.
I had the cam belt done as it was at 60k and 5 years, I thought cam belt replacement was recommended in a 5 year 60K service and I wanted the car to last a few more years so thought it was worth the investment to prevent it going while driving?
The clutch went while on the motorway one week before the Svc was due, so just bad luck on that one. VW dealer in Bham done the work, they advised the flywheel needed replacement to. Not being that mechanically minded I had to go with advice.
It is now difficult to select 2nd from third, when coming down the gears, just seems hard to get it into gear, and it is more likely to go into 4th than second, seems worse as it warms up.
My fear with taking it back is that they may suggest more work, I am £2500K in on this already. The radiator sheered off one week after the Svc/repairs, unrelated according to the dealer, £650 to fix that as well. I will see if they will look at the gear issue under warranty but I simply don’t trust them to own up if it is related and I have no way of knowing.
 

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It is most unlikely, IMHO, that your gearchange problem is unrelated to work done for the new clutch. They really do need to look at it and then fix it - surely a bit of a coincidence if the gearshift was working fine before!

In any case, you should consider naming and shaming the dealer who has not done a good job on what is a fairly basic clutch change. The rest of us won't want to go to them...
 
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Sorry to say this, but looks like you are being seriously shafted by this gang of crooks. Maybe I have misunderstood all of your posts, but I am very concerned that they are seriously ripping you off.
 

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You may have a case with trading standards unless they rectify the problem free of charge, why not get an AA inspection done and see what they say
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They have agreed to look at this under the warranty for the already completed, I will let you know how it pans out, but I not overly confident of a resolution at no expense. It does feel like a rip off at those prices, I doubt I will use them going forward. As a VW dealer and a hefty hourly rate, you would expect a first rate job to be done. This is not what I feel I am getting 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update - The dealership have diagnosed the problem, it appears to be a broken gearbox bracket, which they have apologised for and rectified. So my faith in them has been restored, (still blooming expensive though at £150ph) And thanks to you all for nudging me there way. 👍
 

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Hang on, have they charged you for the gearbox mount? They would have had to remove it to do the clutch and flywheel so either they put it back broken in the first place or broke it putting it back and didn't notice it. It's really obvious if there's excessive play in the mount. I've only just seen this thread as I've only recently joined but my immediate thought was that it would be the gearbox mount as that often manifests as baulky downshifts. Either way I'd be insisting they paid for it.
 
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Sounds like they damaged the mount first time round then it broke later because it was weakened, I think they should do the work FOC, gearbox mounts don't break themselves, challenge them , after all you have spent a lot of money with them already
 

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Which garage is it? I think many forum members may want to avoid them.
 

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Also, there's no way it should have eaten a gearbox mount in 5 years. 10 years maybe if it's had a hard life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry guys, my reply was badly worded. They did fix it FOC. A guy took it for a drive, came back and said yes it had a problem. They said leave it with them, and they fixed it and apologised, which leads me to believe something was done incorrectly first time around.. Your right they had removed the gearbox when doing the original work, so my guess is it was not put back together correctly. Would it be standard practice to have used the original mounts when putting it back together, or would they fit new ones? Wife’s car so I wasn’t there to ask questions.
 

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The gearbox mounts do include synthetic rubber anti-shock/vibration components, so I'm guessing it's good practice to use new ones...
 

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There's little to no chance that they will have fitted new ones at that mileage. If it was at a dealer, they'd be listed on the invoice.
 

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Bar the rubber bits, the mounts do look quite solid and hard to see how they "break"... I suspect misassemnbly !
Main thing is that it is now fixed (for free) :)
 
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