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Discussion Starter #1
I love my Up, its only the 60ps version and tbh no complaints, never had a situation where a few extra horses would have got me anywhere quicker, but im curious about the remapping it to the claimed 80ps that I have seen available.

Has anyone done this, if so would love to hear what you think about it and whether its worth doing.

Loving this site.

Clarkson was right, the UP has an intangible feel good factor way bigger than its diminutive proportions, 2.5 years in and still my most loved car ever (and the cheapest by far).....best thing is the ultra white almost ice silver paint combined with black pack, never had a car that turns so many heads......but I always do a look back whenever I park it....never done that with any car for more than a week before...still doing it with this little tyke.
 

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You can go from the 60ps to the 75ps by a map change; both are standard, and there are companies out there that do it. Apart from the altered map, the two engine variants are identical, as is the 'box and diff, so it's a fairly trivial change. The two variants have the same torque figures though, and the only difference is above 4000 rpm, where the 75ps version adds more fuel and changes ignition timing. Most drivers would never know or care, but I for one, occasionally enjoy using the 4-6k rev range, and the motor is sweet enough for it not to irritate me.

As for getting 80ps, I'm pretty sure that detailed tweaking on a rolling road using a dyno could produce the extra 5bhp, but I doubt it's worth it for the cost. It will vary slightly from engine to engine too.
 

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What year is your 60bhp Up? I believe the pre stop/start models had a shorter ratio gearbox that makes them feel faster.

I think the gearbox in the stop/start models has longer ratios which improves economy at the expense of acceleration.

A lot of people say they can barely notice the difference between the 60bhp and 75bhp engines and very similar insurance premiums would back this up.

Can't comment on the durability of either box for remapping but I guess the closer ratio box would benefit more from a remap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What year is your 60bhp Up? I believe the pre stop/start models had a shorter ratio gearbox that makes them feel faster.

I think the gearbox in the stop/start models has longer ratios which improves economy at the expense of acceleration.

A lot of people say they can barely notice the difference between the 60bhp and 75bhp engines and very similar insurance premiums would back this up.

Can't comment on the durability of either box for remapping but I guess the closer ratio box would benefit more from a remap.
Mine is a 2017 but its not a stop start version, and yes its very nippy but also economical (55/70mpg - town/run)
 

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I don't know about pre-facelift, but post facelift, all the 60 or 75ps engines have the same gearbox/diff ratios, whether stop/start, greentech or whatever, if I remember from reading the spec details (I am that boring).

Interestingly, on the Skoda Greentech variants which have stop/start, post facelift, they also have lowered springs, compared with other models - not sure about all the VW versions though. It must give 0.1 extra MPG at 70 mph or something.

My guess is that VAG built as few variations, bar usual options/toys and branding, as they possibly could get away with, even across brands, so things like too many versions of gear ratios would be too much trouble.
 

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I thought all cars post facelift had stop/start and longer gear ratios.
 

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Not sure how it worked across all the brands, and I have no idea about pre-facelift, but if you say it is so, I believe you. I think all brands, post facelift, with 60 or 75ps, have the same gearing though. Not sure about which have lowered springs....!
 

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On the first series Up's, I think the only way you got a lowered car was to spec it with the "sport pack", which gave you either Triangle or Upsilon alloys, 15mm lowered springs, different shockers, and blacked out rear windows
My Mrs' first 64 plate High Up had the Sportpack, and then my 15 plate High Up had it but woth the Polygon 17" wheels.
Up5.JPG
my up1.JPG
 

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You can go from the 60ps to the 75ps by a map change; both are standard, and there are companies out there that do it. Apart from the altered map, the two engine variants are identical, as is the 'box and diff, so it's a fairly trivial change. The two variants have the same torque figures though, and the only difference is above 4000 rpm, where the 75ps version adds more fuel and changes ignition timing. Most drivers would never know or care, but I for one, occasionally enjoy using the 4-6k rev range, and the motor is sweet enough for it not to irritate me.

As for getting 80ps, I'm pretty sure that detailed tweaking on a rolling road using a dyno could produce the extra 5bhp, but I doubt it's worth it for the cost. It will vary slightly from engine to engine too.
“adds more fuel and changes ignition timing” is almost certainly not the difference between the 60PS and 75PS at high engine speed.
The is very likely done by limiting the throttle blade angle on the 60PS version.
 

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That is a way to limit power, and if you know this to be the case, fair enough!

But wouldn't preventing the throttle bade from fully opening also limit the amount of air getting into the cylinders - both engines have the same torque figures, so how does that work ? Does the 60ps version start to close the throttle beyond 4K rpm?
 

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Yes I would expect exactly that, limit the throttle opening beyond a particular engine speed. As the throttle is electrically controlled it is not directly connected to the drivers pedal then you have the option to do this within the software.

Equally limiting the throttle blade to a single max value for the 60 PS variant (sufficient for 60PS and no more) at all times would have the same effect, as at lower engine speeds the torque would not be affected.

Throttle blade % is available as a PID channel on the OBD port, so if anyone is able to record this for both 60 and 75PS variants we can see what is going on.
 

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I would think the throttle would need to be fully open on both engine variants at peak torque, or a least be equally open on both - the torque will be directly related to the mass of mixture entering the engine, everything else being the same, so it seems likely that the 60ps has to close the throttle a little above 4K.

I was only going by what I was told by a guy who had upped his 60ps to 75ps with a remap - he should have a got a discount if the remap was only a simple change for max throttle opening for a given engine speed ! :) If he's reading this, tell us what it cost, and what you were told! (May have been on the Briskoda forum?)
 

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Yes the throttle would need to be open the same on both variants if the peak torque is the same and made at the same engine speed.

However the throttle blade does not necessarily need to be fully open to achieve peak torque at 3000rpm (it just needs to be open enough to not make a pressure drop across it).

Something related to consider is that torque is related to the mass of fuel/air mixture entering the engine per revolution, where power is related to the mass of fuel/air mixture entering the engine per second.
 
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