You'd be better starting a new post.Greetings everyone!
Got a similar problem with my 2013 up! (still less than 80.000km)... and the opinion of a scanner-owning mechanic. Would love to hear you thoughts on this thingie, though. Here we go:
- On the highway, after driving 30km, both the ABS & traction control lights came on, and stayed on. There was a warning bing.
- I pulled over at a rest stop. Turned on & off the ignition a few times. Both ABS & traction control lights came on immediately when turning to ignition, both lights stayed on. Also the start-stop automatic was malfuctioning, as shown on the dash.
- The next day I drove shopping. None of the problems above occured, the car worked perfectly normal.
- I saw a professional mechanic. His scanner reported "a problem with the left rear ABS sensor".
- The mechanic did some other checks and noticed a voltage drop: "There's 12V going out, but only 4V arriving".
- The mechanic suggested to change the cables for the rear sensor thingie. However, he didn't have time right then.
What's yout thoughts & opinions on this matter? Any recommendations?
- This morning I went for a 80km test drive, most of it highway.
- After around 50km the ABS & traction contol lights came on for 2 seconds or so, there was a warning bing.
- At the end of that test drive I stopped at a traffic light, apparently now the start-stopp automatic malfunctioned, as indicated on the dash. I quickly turned on / off the ignition, everything worked perfectly normal again.
THANKS for you help!
I'm sorry to say this but your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing. In your previous post he told you that the problem was due to only 4V being present when he was expecting 12V.In case someone with a similar problem stumbles upon this post, here's a protocol of my experience:
I spent winter in South Europe, because of the whole c-thing a little loger than expected. During this time, the ABS & traction control lights were on all the time, also the start-stop automatic was malfuctioning, as idicated by a beep and shown on the dash. I got used to it.
2 weeks ago, on my way back North the lights didn't come on. Happened all of a sudden. They didn't come on for around 600km, then - yes, you guessed it: Bing, here's the ABS & traction control lights again.
Back home I had to renew the roadworthie and I went back to the mechanic mentioned above. Asked him to fix the ABS issue by replacing the cable, as he suggested half a year ago already. Cost me quite a substantial sum.
Long story cut short: It didn't solve the problem. I drove around 300k with those lights off, then they came back on and stayed on. I think the mechanic is an honest person, but of course it is very annoying that I paid so much money and the problem isn't solved. I'm in another part of the country now, so I can't go to the workshop again. I don't reckon there's a guarantee for the job anyway. Well, the car was certified roadworthie and I take if for that - being fully aware what those lights indicate.
In case anyone has a similar issue - I'm curious to hear about your experience!
I am having the same problem as described here with the fault code C101C14 showing up which is for left rear ABS wheel speed sensor open circuit / fault to ground. The right side ABS sensor works as expected with no fault codes being registered however when a voltmeter is connected the reading is 12 volts. The left side which is throwing the error registers 4 volts.I'm sorry to say this but your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing. In your previous post he told you that the problem was due to only 4V being present when he was expecting 12V.
4 to 4.5V is the correct value at a sensor. He should know that.
The problem has been fixed and was traced to a poor solder joint where the ABS loom to the rear left wheel which was causing too much resistance in the cable. 12v on both sides now at the ABS sensor.I am having the same problem as described here with the fault code C101C14 showing up which is for left rear ABS wheel speed sensor open circuit / fault to ground. The right side ABS sensor works as expected with no fault codes being registered however when a voltmeter is connected the reading is 12 volts. The left side which is throwing the error registers 4 volts.
Just a side note, I noticed that the right side has had the rear ABS loom replaced from the ABS sensor back to where it meets the wiring loom. Is it common for these wires to break somewhere between the body and the ABS sensor thus increasing the resistance and hence causing the voltage drop?
Hi Stephen,The ABS / Traction Control light is on in my Move Up! (2013).
Just happened tonight.
Anyone know what's likely to be the cause?
Car drives okay.
Can KwikFit fix it?
Hi at what point is the poor joint. is it at the wheel or the engine. ThanksThe problem has been fixed and was traced to a poor solder joint where the ABS loom to the rear left wheel which was causing too much resistance in the cable. 12v on both sides now at the ABS sensor.
This car had at one point had new abs looms fitted (presumably they had become broken somewhere between the wheel sensor and where the run into the body). For other VAG cars there are repair looms that require the abs wheel side wire to be traced to where it meets the main body loom and then cut out and a replacement repair loom soldered in. I was led to this investigation due to a previous owner MOT failure which listed the rear ABS sensor as a problem and then an invoice for a wiring repair to remedy that but it did not stipulate the side. I also had experience of issues with ABS wires on other VAG cars which have a tendency to eat the wire when some wheel and tyre combinations are used (I'm looking at you Audi A2 Sport, that came with 17 inch wheels from a TT)Hi at what point is the poor joint. is it at the wheel or the engine. Thanks