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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
@plancast - Thanks for the tip. I'll bear that in mind. Hopefully the auto electrician will tell me tomorrow what the problem is. I'll update this thread then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Auto electrician said the problem was corrosion in part of the wiring harness. I hope he's right. Corroded part will be replaced tomorrow all being well.
 

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Sounds promising - fingers crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update: the corroded part of the harness was replaced by the auto electrician. £25 parts; £40 diagnostics; £90 labour + VAT. Light is out and car seems fine now.
 

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Good to hear; thanks for letting us know. Enjoy having your car back!
 

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Greetings everyone!

Got a similar problem with my 2013 up! (still less than 80.000km)... and the opinion of a scanner-owning mechanic. Would love to hear you thoughts on this thingie, though. Here we go:

  • On the highway, after driving 30km, both the ABS & traction control lights came on, and stayed on. There was a warning bing.
  • I pulled over at a rest stop. Turned on & off the ignition a few times. Both ABS & traction control lights came on immediately when turning to ignition, both lights stayed on. Also the start-stop automatic was malfuctioning, as shown on the dash.

  • I saw a professional mechanic. His scanner reported "a problem with the left rear ABS sensor".
  • The mechanic did some other checks and noticed a voltage drop: "There's 12V going out, but only 4V arriving".
  • The mechanic suggested to change the cables for the rear sensor thingie. However, he didn't have time right then.

- The next day I drove shopping. None of the problems above occured, the car worked perfectly normal.

  • This morning I went for a 80km test drive, most of it highway.
  • After around 50km the ABS & traction contol lights came on for 2 seconds or so, there was a warning bing.
  • At the end of that test drive I stopped at a traffic light, apparently now the start-stopp automatic malfunctioned, as indicated on the dash. I quickly turned on / off the ignition, everything worked perfectly normal again.

What's yout thoughts & opinions on this matter? Any recommendations?

THANKS for you help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@timdotee It might be the same problem I had — corrosion in the part of the wiring harness that feeds the left rear ABS sensor. My mechanic plugged his diagnostics into my car and got an error saying the sensor was bad. But after he replaced the sensor, the error was still there. I had to go to an auto electrician to get the harness replaced. It's a 2-hour job.
 

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Greetings everyone!

Got a similar problem with my 2013 up! (still less than 80.000km)... and the opinion of a scanner-owning mechanic. Would love to hear you thoughts on this thingie, though. Here we go:

  • On the highway, after driving 30km, both the ABS & traction control lights came on, and stayed on. There was a warning bing.
  • I pulled over at a rest stop. Turned on & off the ignition a few times. Both ABS & traction control lights came on immediately when turning to ignition, both lights stayed on. Also the start-stop automatic was malfuctioning, as shown on the dash.

  • I saw a professional mechanic. His scanner reported "a problem with the left rear ABS sensor".
  • The mechanic did some other checks and noticed a voltage drop: "There's 12V going out, but only 4V arriving".
  • The mechanic suggested to change the cables for the rear sensor thingie. However, he didn't have time right then.
- The next day I drove shopping. None of the problems above occured, the car worked perfectly normal.

  • This morning I went for a 80km test drive, most of it highway.
  • After around 50km the ABS & traction contol lights came on for 2 seconds or so, there was a warning bing.
  • At the end of that test drive I stopped at a traffic light, apparently now the start-stopp automatic malfunctioned, as indicated on the dash. I quickly turned on / off the ignition, everything worked perfectly normal again.
What's yout thoughts & opinions on this matter? Any recommendations?

THANKS for you help!
You'd be better starting a new post.
 

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In case someone with a similar problem stumbles upon this post, here's a protocol of my experience:

I spent winter in South Europe, because of the whole c-thing a little loger than expected. During this time, the ABS & traction control lights were on all the time, also the start-stop automatic was malfuctioning, as idicated by a beep and shown on the dash. I got used to it.

2 weeks ago, on my way back North the lights didn't come on. Happened all of a sudden. They didn't come on for around 600km, then - yes, you guessed it: Bing, here's the ABS & traction control lights again.

Back home I had to renew the roadworthie and I went back to the mechanic mentioned above. Asked him to fix the ABS issue by replacing the cable, as he suggested half a year ago already. Cost me quite a substantial sum.

Long story cut short: It didn't solve the problem. I drove around 300k with those lights off, then they came back on and stayed on. I think the mechanic is an honest person, but of course it is very annoying that I paid so much money and the problem isn't solved. I'm in another part of the country now, so I can't go to the workshop again. I don't reckon there's a guarantee for the job anyway. Well, the car was certified roadworthie and I take if for that - being fully aware what those lights indicate.

In case anyone has a similar issue - I'm curious to hear about your experience!
 

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In case someone with a similar problem stumbles upon this post, here's a protocol of my experience:

I spent winter in South Europe, because of the whole c-thing a little loger than expected. During this time, the ABS & traction control lights were on all the time, also the start-stop automatic was malfuctioning, as idicated by a beep and shown on the dash. I got used to it.

2 weeks ago, on my way back North the lights didn't come on. Happened all of a sudden. They didn't come on for around 600km, then - yes, you guessed it: Bing, here's the ABS & traction control lights again.

Back home I had to renew the roadworthie and I went back to the mechanic mentioned above. Asked him to fix the ABS issue by replacing the cable, as he suggested half a year ago already. Cost me quite a substantial sum.

Long story cut short: It didn't solve the problem. I drove around 300k with those lights off, then they came back on and stayed on. I think the mechanic is an honest person, but of course it is very annoying that I paid so much money and the problem isn't solved. I'm in another part of the country now, so I can't go to the workshop again. I don't reckon there's a guarantee for the job anyway. Well, the car was certified roadworthie and I take if for that - being fully aware what those lights indicate.

In case anyone has a similar issue - I'm curious to hear about your experience!
I'm sorry to say this but your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing. In your previous post he told you that the problem was due to only 4V being present when he was expecting 12V.
4 to 4.5V is the correct value at a sensor. He should know that.
 

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I'm sorry to say this but your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing. In your previous post he told you that the problem was due to only 4V being present when he was expecting 12V.
4 to 4.5V is the correct value at a sensor. He should know that.
I am having the same problem as described here with the fault code C101C14 showing up which is for left rear ABS wheel speed sensor open circuit / fault to ground. The right side ABS sensor works as expected with no fault codes being registered however when a voltmeter is connected the reading is 12 volts. The left side which is throwing the error registers 4 volts.

Just a side note, I noticed that the right side has had the rear ABS loom replaced from the ABS sensor back to where it meets the wiring loom. Is it common for these wires to break somewhere between the body and the ABS sensor thus increasing the resistance and hence causing the voltage drop?
 

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I am having the same problem as described here with the fault code C101C14 showing up which is for left rear ABS wheel speed sensor open circuit / fault to ground. The right side ABS sensor works as expected with no fault codes being registered however when a voltmeter is connected the reading is 12 volts. The left side which is throwing the error registers 4 volts.

Just a side note, I noticed that the right side has had the rear ABS loom replaced from the ABS sensor back to where it meets the wiring loom. Is it common for these wires to break somewhere between the body and the ABS sensor thus increasing the resistance and hence causing the voltage drop?
The problem has been fixed and was traced to a poor solder joint where the ABS loom to the rear left wheel which was causing too much resistance in the cable. 12v on both sides now at the ABS sensor.
 

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The ABS / Traction Control light is on in my Move Up! (2013).

Just happened tonight.

Anyone know what's likely to be the cause?

Car drives okay.

Can KwikFit fix it?

Thanks,

Stpehen.
Hi Stephen,

any further news?

We have a 2015 up and the abs, skid and tyre pressure lights have come on about three weeks ago.

What we have found out so far: The wheel was reading no speed on the rolling road so this looked like asb sensor issue. Replace the sensor and it didn't fix the fault so they said wiring fault.
So I took it to my local vw independent guy and explained this. So he created a link from the off side wiring thats fine and connected it to the nearside rear and presto the sensor works. This now looks like a wiring fault within the wire that connects at the front to the rear abs sensor.

Will replace the wire and see if this fixes.
 

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The problem has been fixed and was traced to a poor solder joint where the ABS loom to the rear left wheel which was causing too much resistance in the cable. 12v on both sides now at the ABS sensor.
Hi at what point is the poor joint. is it at the wheel or the engine. Thanks
 

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I'm surprised that it is 'solder joints' as opposed to just corroded connectors, as I haven't yet seen any soldered connections in the wiring of my car. This sounds like a previous repair, if soldering has been done....
 

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Hi at what point is the poor joint. is it at the wheel or the engine. Thanks
This car had at one point had new abs looms fitted (presumably they had become broken somewhere between the wheel sensor and where the run into the body). For other VAG cars there are repair looms that require the abs wheel side wire to be traced to where it meets the main body loom and then cut out and a replacement repair loom soldered in. I was led to this investigation due to a previous owner MOT failure which listed the rear ABS sensor as a problem and then an invoice for a wiring repair to remedy that but it did not stipulate the side. I also had experience of issues with ABS wires on other VAG cars which have a tendency to eat the wire when some wheel and tyre combinations are used (I'm looking at you Audi A2 Sport, that came with 17 inch wheels from a TT)

On my car this was hard to detect as a repair as this required removal of the rear bench and then the plastics that form the sill around the rear door to gain access to the point where the abs wire meets the main body harness, the loom had been correctly retaped together so everything looked like the factory wiring harness however with further investigation I found poor workmanship on the soldered joints. Once these were repaired and covered with heat shrink (unlike the previous repair) issue was resolved.
 
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