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Did my 3rd tyre in 6k miles on another bloody pothole tonight.....sidewall again so another new tyre needed And had to do the spare on back and back on flat front shimmy on the side of a motorway

so, question is , how small steel rims will fit the gti, 15 or 16”.?.....fed up with the 17’s with black elastic bands for tyres !

need something with better sidewall size and compliance

annoyed of Ayrshire (John)
 

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I sympathise - the roads aren't brilliant down here either, despite attempts to patch them before winter. So far (touch wood) that's only necessitated a wheel realignment at the last service, not an adventure at the side of the road...

I don't have any official info on models past 2017, unfortunately, but the post-2014 regular Up!s (which did allow for 17" wheels) had the following approved options (these are all 4x100):

5J x 14 et35 (summer tyres 165/70 R14 81T, 175/65 R14 82T; winter tyres 165/70 R14 81Q/T)
5.5J x 15 et41 (summer tyres 185/55 R15 82T)
6J x 16 et43 (summer tyres 185/50 R16 81H/T)
6.5J x 17 et43 (summer tyres 195/40 R17 81T) - which is what carfolio.com claims is standard for the 2018 GTI.

willtheyfit.com suggests dropping down to standard 16"s would be ok; general advice seems to be you can go +/- 1" from your original wheel size without issues, but you may not want to drop any further to avoid conflicts with the discs/calipers (which I imagine are bigger than a standard Up!).

Hope this helps!
 

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Not sure about steel rims. But we fitted a set of VW's 15" winter alloy wheels (1SO-071-495-A-8Z8) with all-season tyres (185/55 R15 XL 86H) to our little red chariot last year. We had a learner driver in the family. So, we didn't want him to damage the original rims or tyres.
4535
 

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I've had 2 tyres recently as well, one was vandalised outside my house by a hooligan with a knife, and just before new year, I too hit a pot hole (read crater) and did a wheel and a tyre. Shame was is was the tyre I'd just replaced as well! And these tyres aren't cheap if you pay VW prices for them, £133 each! Alloy wheel is £466!
 

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Try driving in Glasgow, just confirmed this week as the worst in Britain, you would honestly think it had been carpet bombed including the M8, not that my council that joins it is much better or the other four councils I pass through on my daily commute.
It is actually so dangerous as driving back and forward to work in the dark with the Ups cartoon candle headlights I pay little attention to what is further ahead concentrating more on the road just in front of my car waiting for the next pothole that my wheels will smash into, the state of our roads is the reason I will swap back my original springs for the H+R lowering ones fitted in August.
Like most things in this country if you pay your taxes you get f#ck all back as the government and councils blow it all on the parasites who contribute the middle of a polo mint.
 

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I've got 15" from the Mrs' High up Tsi as my winter wheels. You have to be very careful that 15" will clear the bigger GTi calipers, these JUST cleared but it was so close that I put a 2mm spacer on the front, rears are obviously fine.Wife now has 16" Upsilon alloys on hers now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all......guess what...it WAS GLASGOW ...roads are frightening, even with the huge wheel/tyre Amarok !
 

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If I'd have known how "weak" these tyres are, I wouldn't have replaced them with the same type. I damaged two tyres on one side on a pothole which numerous other cars seem to clear without a problem. Seems it's been reported a few times about the Goodyear's suffering a bit with split sidewalls on the Facebook group too.
 

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It's because they have no sidewall whatsoever to them in an attempt to be "sporty" when in reality it makes it anything but.

Have a look on the facebook group "4x100 wheels", they are loads on there all the time for not a lot of money if you're thinking of changing.
 

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The very soft side wall is all to do with fuel efficiency.
The lighter the tyre the less rotational mass that has to be moved.
result is better fuel efficiency by very small percentages.
That is why the tyre pressures are so high in Standard form To compensate for the soft side walls.

this means when tyre pressures are set low the side walls cannot take impact.
Set them high and The structural rigidity is retained but the ride is siht. And the
Suspension is doing all of the work crashing about.

but I could be wrong. There are A lot of people on this forum that no better. So I’m sure they are done for sports And That’s why they have Efficiency grip written on the tire.
 

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The very soft side wall is all to do with fuel efficiency.
The lighter the tyre the less rotational mass that has to be moved.
result is better fuel efficiency by very small percentages.
That is why the tyre pressures are so high in Standard form To compensate for the soft side walls.

this means when tyre pressures are set low the side walls cannot take impact.
Set them high and The structural rigidity is retained but the ride is siht. And the
Suspension is doing all of the work crashing about.

but I could be wrong. There are A lot of people on this forum that no better. So I’m sure they are done for sports And That’s why they have Efficiency grip written on the tire.
You are correct but it's the lack of sidewall that is the problem, there's hardly any barrier between the road and the rim of the wheel so no absorption. That's fine if your roads are billiard table smooth but as we all know they don't tend to be.
Basically you hit a pothole and the tyre will get caught between the ground and the rim effectively "pinching" it and causing the blow-out.
If you've ever rode a road bicycle with 700c tyres you will have no doubt had the same thing and heard that lovely clunk followed by the air rapidly leaving the tyre, same thing but in a smaller package.

So you either over inflate them and suffer the hard ride or not and keep a look-out for potholes etc. But stepping down a size or 2 in wheel and putting more sidewall between the road and wheel would definitely help. Not only that but you'd probably find more grip and a better ride.
 

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The less-popular answer will be ThatUp!GTI's response, which is only use wheel/tyre combos that are less susceptible to blow-out. Unless you want to have 'winter' (smaller wheel/thicker wall combo) and 'summer' ('fun' combo) sets, the cheapest will be carrying a spare wheel with you in the boot - either a 'space-saver' or full-sized - as it's a one-off purchase. It doesn't have to be anything fancy; just enough to get you to a safe place for a permanent solution. Quick-repair kits aren't designed for these sorts of events, even if you have one. Otherwise it's your pick of a roadside recovery service (AA/RAC/friend/family/etc).

Which reminds me, really must check the pressure in my spare tyre, otherwise there's no point (easy to forget when you're doing the active 4 and it's in the bottom of the boot)...
 

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The less-popular answer will be ThatUp!GTI's response, which is only use wheel/tyre combos that are less susceptible to blow-out. Unless you want to have 'winter' (smaller wheel/thicker wall combo) and 'summer' ('fun' combo) sets, the cheapest will be carrying a spare wheel with you in the boot - either a 'space-saver' or full-sized - as it's a one-off purchase. It doesn't have to be anything fancy; just enough to get you to a safe place for a permanent solution. Quick-repair kits aren't designed for these sorts of events, even if you have one. Otherwise it's your pick of a roadside recovery service (AA/RAC/friend/family/etc).

Which reminds me, really must check the pressure in my spare tyre, otherwise there's no point (easy to forget when you're doing the active 4 and it's in the bottom of the boot)...
It won't be popular as the fashion now is to overwheel a car and put elastic band tyres on. The new Mini is probably the worst culprit as they add run-flats into the equation which make the ride even worse.

If you go to the dealer they will order you a spare wheel and tyre with the correct tool holder thing for your spare well for about £150. Or if you're ordering a new one get them to throw it on there like i did before you collect the car.

The above is why i stepped up size on the mx5 from a 205/40 that came on the car to a 215/45 that most other owners use. More sidewall, grip plus comfort all in an easy swap and as a bonus the tyres are cheaper. It's not on trend but it takes a lot of worry out of it when you run around on 27psi.
 

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These threads always worry me that I dont carry a spare. Guessing an ebay spacesaver is the cheapest solution
Just keep an eye on gumtree for a cheap spacesaver so you save on delivery, I quickly got a brand new 16" VX Astra spacesaver for a whole £10 ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
will fit my new tyre tonight, opted to keep on the 17's but run 32/30 psi and see how that does...a nice new 100litre compressor coming today so wheel changes and impact wrench/pressure adjustment easy...will report back folks! thanks for all the learned advice Fact...roads are **** and councils don't care!
 

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As long as you can undo the efforts of the impact wrench by hand in a roadside emergency!
 

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As long as you can undo the efforts of the impact wrench by hand in a roadside emergency!

I always set wheelnuts by my trusty Norbar Torque wrench so no worries there! :)
 

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I had to replace both the original Goodyear tyres very early on in ownership due to deep cuts in the sidewalls, I fitted 4 Hankook tyres and touch wood I've not had any more issues since, my car is driven daily and now covered 10k on them with no issues whatsoever, the Goodyears are shocking.
 
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