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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2014 Move Up! is approaching an age where a new battery may be needed. If so, is it a diy proposition?

Not so much as in the physical fitting, more in the sense that the onboard computer might need resetting after a break in the power supply?

Has anyone done their own battery swap that can advise, please?

Mine is NOT a start/stop model, if that helps!
 

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The memory won't be affected by a break in power when fitting a new battery.

Disconnect the earth/ground (-ve) terminal first and reconnect it last. That is, disconnect the old battery negative terminal first and positive (red) second. When reconnecting the new battery, connect the red terminal first and the negative second.

Give the terminals a good clean and spray them with some form of corrosion inhibitor.

Buy a good quality battery, cheap ones aren't worth the trouble.

Good luck...Snaefell (Marown, IoM).
 

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You shouldn't need a new battery at 5 years old. OE batteries tend to last 8-10 years now, obviously dependent on how much use they get. Generally more use, last longer.
 

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Did it myself about a month ago (15-plate Move Up!, non-start/stop, original battery). Snaefell's advice is spot on; it was very easy to do (although my terminal clamps had just started to fuse to the posts, so a little gentle persuasion was required). It's still not entirely clear what happened next, but the best interpretation is that the computer got a bit confused, let too much petrol into the engine and flooded it. Best described as sounding like it was hacking up hairballs when trying to start, with the whole car shaking. Left it overnight, decided to make use of my VW Roadside Assistance as a precaution, and they managed to get it to start with some assistance from the accelerator pedal (and a big cough of black smoke out the back)... My battery conked out with the first frost, so if you are changing yours as a precaution it will hopefully be a less dramatic event!

Although this video is for the start/stop model, it's very similar to what you will face on your car (only the battery's a bit smaller):

Incidentally, my battery had a manufacturing date of 02/15, and it failed in the middle of 11/19, so just shy of 5 years with ~58k on the clock. It has been replaced with a 420cca Bosch S4 battery, which has a 4 year guarantee. Every technician I spoke to while sorting this out said 5 years was pretty impressive for a battery these days, with 3-4 years being all manufacturers will guarantee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I only use my car once or twice a week - and my feeling is that 5 years is about end of life time for an OE battery. And unlike days of old, they can now fail without warning, which I want to avoid!

The Bosch S4 is the battery I am going for - your choice reassures me here. Many thanks for your helpful post!
 

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Glad I could be of assistance. Mine was definitely without warning - fine on the Friday and Sunday, then a pathetic mewling on the Monday... Only change was the temperature dropping from 10C to -1C!
If you run in to any hiccups, let us know - I'm sure someone will be able to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, job done!

I took the belts and braces approach - using my new battery as the "connected spare" while I did the changeover. It involved some tricky maneuvering with jump leads but meant at no time was the car disconnected from a power supply.

Doubtless, I didn't need to do this, as has been mentioned above, but as I could, I did!

The trickiest part? Apart from juggling jump leads, was actually swapping the battery over. The stop/start battery shown in the video above has a nice built in handle to lift it out - the smaller one fitted to my humble Up! doesn't. So I had to be very careful lifting in and out a heavy battery while making sure I didn't dislodge my jump leads.

So, I've probably turned a simple job into an unnecessarily tricky one, but it's done now, thanks go to everyone who pitched in with helpful advice.

PS - I put my old battery on a pulse charger when removed, and it showed itself to be only 40% charged, so I do feel I replaced it in good time!
 

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I fitted the bosch S4 on our Lupo last week (46 quid on ebay) the old S4 lasted about 5 years but the car gets little use and short journeys, so the old battery had flattened twice. I think with regular runs to keep it topped up it would have lasted longer.

Our UP is 5½ years old and original battery still going strong.
 

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Excellent - glad you're back up and running! And thanks for the info on what snags you hit for future reference.

OK, job done!

I took the belts and braces approach - using my new battery as the "connected spare" while I did the changeover. It involved some tricky maneuvering with jump leads but meant at no time was the car disconnected from a power supply.

Doubtless, I didn't need to do this, as has been mentioned above, but as I could, I did!

The trickiest part? Apart from juggling jump leads, was actually swapping the battery over. The stop/start battery shown in the video above has a nice built in handle to lift it out - the smaller one fitted to my humble Up! doesn't. So I had to be very careful lifting in and out a heavy battery while making sure I didn't dislodge my jump leads.

So, I've probably turned a simple job into an unnecessarily tricky one, but it's done now, thanks go to everyone who pitched in with helpful advice.

PS - I put my old battery on a pulse charger when removed, and it showed itself to be only 40% charged, so I do feel I replaced it in good time!
 

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It's still not entirely clear what happened next, but the best interpretation is that the computer got a bit confused, let too much petrol into the engine and flooded it. Best described as sounding like it was hacking up hairballs when trying to start, with the whole car shaking. Left it overnight, decided to make use of my VW Roadside Assistance as a precaution, and they managed to get it to start with some assistance from the accelerator pedal (and a big cough of black smoke out the back)... My battery conked out with the first frost, so if you are changing yours as a precaution it will hopefully be a less dramatic event!
My Citigo did the same thing one morning. Car was moved night before about 30 metres and engine was stopped. My girlfriend could start it at all. I had to push gas pedal all the way down to get it started. (Usually electric fuel injection does not give any fuel when started gas pedal down.) First it was firing one cylinder. Then two and finally with all three.

I have never have any issues when I have disconnected battery terminal.
 

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Our March 2004 Lupo SDi, with low for its age, 138,873 miles on its clock, is still on its original battery.
A cars original factory fitted battery, should last considerably longer than five years.

Our Lupo has been almost a short distance stop start car, far from ideal for battery longevity, and several years ago, it was accidentally drained twice, but it still soldiers on.

Battery technology no doubt, has improved in nearly 15yrs, so a battery reaching its end of life in 5 yr, not in my reckoning.

The garage that services and Mots the Lupo annually, told us, a fifteen year old original battery, is nothing exceptional.
 

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Lead is expensive these days. They probably use it less now than 15 years ago. Taxi cars needs new battery every year. They did need a new battery once in a year 15 years too. So every battery isn't the same. And some use is harder for a battery than another.
 

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That's not what mine sounded like when the battery was dying - my engine tried to turn over, but it sounded like a wounded animal and the headlights dimmed to almost nothing. Yours doesn't appear to trying to turn over, and is also showing a check engine/EPC light, which is looking more like either the starter or the relay that controls it (see, for example, Car Won’t Start? 5 Signs of a Bad Starter | Completely Firestone). Was the car working normally before this happened, or has it been struggling to start for a while? Has anything changed/happened that might drain the battery completely and suddenly (like leaving the lights on)? Have you measured the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine off, and when you try to start - are both of these values >10V? Do you have any ability to read fault codes through the diagnostic port?
If it does turn out to be the battery, then the size depends on whether you have a Start/Stop engine or not. Standard batteries are 175mm x 175mm x 190mm. Start/Stop batteries are 175mm x 242mm x 190mm. When I queried my local car parts store's website, all suggested Start/Stop batteries are EFB, which agrees with what's printed on the battery you removed. AGM batteries can be used, but they are overspeced unless the car uses regenerative breaking (see one explanation here: Which is the best replacement battery for automatic start-stop systems?).
 

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check engine, EPC and battery lights usually stay on until you completly start the car then it dissapeares if i'm not mistaken?

maybe difference in symptoms is because my Up! has an start/stop feature, which never worked since i bought it few weeks ago, it's a used car

to this point car worked normally, this happened all of the sudden, two days ago for the first time, i somehow managed to start it and later that day i didn't have any problems, then the car stayed in the garage over night and next day(yesterday) the same thing repeated and i was unable to start it no matter how i tried
there wasnt anything that could drain the battery i was extra cautious about that

unfortunatelly i don't have any mesuring tools, that would make things easier for sure
 

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check engine, EPC and battery lights usually stay on until you completly start the car then it dissapeares if i'm not mistaken?

maybe difference in symptoms is because my Up! has an start/stop feature, which never worked since i bought it few weeks ago, it's a used car

to this point car worked normally, this happened all of the sudden, two days ago for the first time, i somehow managed to start it and later that day i didn't have any problems, then the car stayed in the garage over night and next day(yesterday) the same thing repeated and i was unable to start it no matter how i tried
there wasnt anything that could drain the battery i was extra cautious about that

unfortunatelly i don't have any mesuring tools, that would make things easier for sure
I will double check what mine does on start-up (it's not a start/stop model) later today; I think I get a slightly different sequence of lights. Still, yours is making some very nasty noises. Thanks for the explanation of what happened before it failed. I will have a look at the wiring diagrammes and see if there's anything special/particular about that system that might be causing your problem. My suspicion is still the starter relay (basically a switch that controls power to the starter motor), but that needs a multimeter to check - could a friend loan you one temporarily?
Could you also tell me the age/model of your Up!?
 

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it's a 2012. Take Up! 1.0 mpi 44kw BMT

i'll try to get a multimeter tomorrow

btw i've mounted old battery back onto car in hope that it'll give me different result today but the same reaction happened
the strange thing is that i can use my radio, ventilation on max, headlights... at the same time without slight change in performance of those mentioned

edit: maybe it's worth mentioning how i started the car the first time this problem occured
my friend told me about that trick and he assisted me, while i was in a car, key in ignition, in gear holding clutch down he was pushing the car, after achieving some momentum i released the clutch and car started aka push/bump start

is that saying anything relevant
 

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OK, so a close relative of mine (apart from the start/stop). If it's of any interest, I took a quick film of mine starting up this morning (pardon the coat rustling) here. It does look like we're showing the same sequence of lights during the start-up routine, except mine starts and yours struggles.
Everything you describe points to the starter or relay, not the battery. (As a side note, it looks like the battery might be the original one; see if you can find a date code on it - on mine it was engraved on one of the terminals. Once you have a multimeter, it would be a good idea to check it.) Push/bump starting is essentially bypassing the starter motor.
This video explains how to tell whether it's the starter motor or the relay (please note the safety warnings about putting the car in neutral and handbrake on before trying!), this one is a safer option for testing the relay itself, and this one gives some background on how the starter system functions. There are 2 starter relays; these and the relevant fuses are found in the dash panel behind the steering wheel (see here). Hopefully they will be labelled something helpful like J906 and J907 (if I have time this afternoon I will go into mine and see if I can identify them).
 

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Starter solenoid given up the ghost, more than likely that's whats doing the clicking.
 
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