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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody changed their control arms? I have a 2012 Up! that needs new control arm bushes, and since I can buy control arms with bushes included, I thought that would be the easiest route. I'm working on the car in a communal carpark, on gravel! Any pointers would be gratefully received.
 

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Hi there,
I'm guessing from the silence that no-one has attempted this yet, and I can't find anything for the Up! on YouTube. However, there are instructions in the online version of the Workshop Manual:

And this video shows the removal of the wishbone/lower control arm on a Golf, which doesn't look miles off the ETKA drawings for the Up!:

My main concern is that you are in a communal carpark on gravel. The video above does actually show the car parked on gravel contained within a grating, and makes some excellent safety recommendations, but if yours is parked on loose chippings/stones I would think very hard about finding somewhere firmer to work. If you have to heave on any stuck bolts or accidentally disturb the gravel, your axle stands may move or collapse, and squashed owners can't benefit from their handiwork! Try to find the quietest part of the carpark so no-one runs you over while working underneath, and if possible have someone check on you regularly as a safety precaution. If you cannot find somewhere safe to work, I would strongly advise taking it round to your local garage when they are next open.

If you do go ahead, please do post some comments/pictures for the next person.
 

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Whilst I can't help with the control arm, mine is a way off yet, I recalled fixing various daily drivers in the road/ car parks back in the day

I always found a multi storey car park, shopping centre, so free, off in a corner. If challenged, broke down, fixing it now

Warm(er), dry and out of the weather...................Hope it goes to plan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi there,
I'm guessing from the silence that no-one has attempted this yet, and I can't find anything for the Up! on YouTube. However, there are instructions in the online version of the Workshop Manual:

And this video shows the removal of the wishbone/lower control arm on a Golf, which doesn't look miles off the ETKA drawings for the Up!:

My main concern is that you are in a communal carpark on gravel. The video above does actually show the car parked on gravel contained within a grating, and makes some excellent safety recommendations, but if yours is parked on loose chippings/stones I would think very hard about finding somewhere firmer to work. If you have to heave on any stuck bolts or accidentally disturb the gravel, your axle stands may move or collapse, and squashed owners can't benefit from their handiwork! Try to find the quietest part of the carpark so no-one runs you over while working underneath, and if possible have someone check on you regularly as a safety precaution. If you cannot find somewhere safe to work, I would strongly advise taking it round to your local garage when they are next open.

If you do go ahead, please do post some comments/pictures for the next person.
Hi there,
I'm guessing from the silence that no-one has attempted this yet, and I can't find anything for the Up! on YouTube. However, there are instructions in the online version of the Workshop Manual:

And this video shows the removal of the wishbone/lower control arm on a Golf, which doesn't look miles off the ETKA drawings for the Up!:

My main concern is that you are in a communal carpark on gravel. The video above does actually show the car parked on gravel contained within a grating, and makes some excellent safety recommendations, but if yours is parked on loose chippings/stones I would think very hard about finding somewhere firmer to work. If you have to heave on any stuck bolts or accidentally disturb the gravel, your axle stands may move or collapse, and squashed owners can't benefit from their handiwork! Try to find the quietest part of the carpark so no-one runs you over while working underneath, and if possible have someone check on you regularly as a safety precaution. If you cannot find somewhere safe to work, I would strongly advise taking it round to your local garage when they are next open.

If you do go ahead, please do post some comments/pictures for the next person.
Hi, I've been very busy at work for the past few weeks - I'm in logistics, so I haven't been able to attempt it. Luckily for me I have tomorrow off and the weather up here (Scotland) is to be good, so I will be doing it tomorrow. the car park is a private one and very quiet, and I have a solid area to jack up on. thanks for the video- it seems very straight forward! I'll let you know and I'll try and remember to take some snaps, cheers.
 

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Undo track rod end and droplink. Split balljoint from arm and undo both bolts holding the control arm in. You'll need a torque wrench for doing it all up. Buy a good quality control arm, the lesser & cheap ones tend to have bushes that give up very quickly. Lemforder tend to be OE suppliers, certainly to german marques.

I've this to do myself, the passenger side has an annoying squeak and at full lock has a bit of movement. The bigger bush is shagged.
 

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Undo track rod end and droplink. Split balljoint from arm and undo both bolts holding the control arm in. You'll need a torque wrench for doing it all up. Buy a good quality control arm, the lesser & cheap ones tend to have bushes that give up very quickly. Lemforder tend to be OE suppliers, certainly to german marques.

I've this to do myself, the passenger side has an annoying squeak and at full lock has a bit of movement. The bigger bush is shagged.
May as well also replace the droplinks. The OE ones on mine were made from a cheese type substance, totally fecked after 20,000 miles, and are very cheap to buy, about £10 upwards for a pair. Offside strut top mount bearing was also fecked after same low mileage.
 

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Looks like there is no need to buy a new arm, you can replace the bushes. Lemforder arm is £45, the bushes are £12 for both sides. But a press, or even a sockets & threaded bar is needed to push/pull the bushes in/out.

According to the VW guide on this job, there is no need to undo the droplink and TRE either. I'm finding that very hard to believe as every car I've changed a wishbone on has had to have these undone. I'm willing to be surprised though!
 

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These control arms look like a dream to replace compared to the rusted 20 year old pair I did on my mates 3 series last year ha! Re point above: if you don’t have access to a press, it’s usually easier to just buy arms with bushings already pressed in. A good threading bar set can use up the money saved by just buying bushings and in my experience they still tend to break. Pre-assembled are just bolt off bolt on. As above, can’t see how you can go about not removing drop links if drop links are attached to the arm? Unless they’re different to the video above and not attached. Either way, replacing them and the whole arms seems like preventative maintenance. Pls don’t jack up on gravel.
 

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Replaced these bushes yesterday. Thankfully, as my press is 30mins away with my 205s, I have a bush kit that I used for re-bushing my BMW. Couple of hours at most including an oil change and showing a 13yo how to change an oil filter.

Car feels tighter already and the annoying squeak appears to have gone. The rear bush on each control arm was badly perished.

Oh, and yes, you don't have to remove the track rod end nor the droplink. Three nuts under the hub, a bolt at the front of the arm and a nut & bolt at the rear. To do them up, is a torque and an angle tighten like a head bolt. The front one is a further 180'.
 
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