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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, my EPC light has come on and keeps coming back when it is cleared by using a reader.

The error reads as:
16434 - Charge Pressure Control Actuator, P334B 00 [167] - Mechanical Malfunction


Any ideas what it might be? It's a 2017 High Up, TSI.
Many thanks
 

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The wastegate actuators do seem to like to seize on these, often after a period of not being driven.
Pretty sure its an electric actuator and the arm or valve seizes. You could try to free it off manually if its not too bad, worst case you'd need a turbo rebuild if its properly stuck. I've also heard that the gears inside the electric part can strip too but fingers crossed its just a little sticky.
 

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Yeah, not a big deal to sort.

As I was saying to "The Ash" earlier, turbos are pretty reliable. But often the other bits (connected to them) are not so great.
 

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If you look down the back of the engine from above you can just about see the wastegate arm.
If you do a cold start then from watching mine (on GTI) it will be in one end position when the engine is in catalyst heating mode (with higher idle speed etc) and moves to the other end position when idle speed drops. If it doesn’t move then stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all, will take a look tomorrow. If I clear the light and disconnect the battery it only comes on after a minute, without disconnecting the power it is as soon as you press the accelerator. During that time the car doesnt appear to be in limp mode.
 

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The difference between the battery disconnect or not may relate to whether or not it has to attempt some kind of end stop adaption or something before making a decision on the fault. Or after a battery disconnect it may always go into catalyst heating (as it may lose the timer since last start and thus the modelled catalyst temperature) - and then only try and move the wastegate once the catalyst heating is finished (then pick up fault).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK thanks will do, I also should have mentioned, on the dash it brings up a Stop/Start error and then goes away, leaving the epc light on. This must be related as this all started the same time. Oddly after I used an electric car pump to pump my bike tyres up. Although I wonder if that is just coincidence.
However VCDS doesnt mention that, although that I presume it is showing a more technical response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is the battery still ok? May be near EoL.
Electronics may need a reset.
That also crossed my mind, although I couldnt remove the battery to replace it. The water filler is in the way, I couldnt unclip it from its location?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Morning here is my engine bay, little unsure as to the location of the actuator, difficult to see round the back. Also I have highlighted the water tank which is in the way of the battery. Would you normally expect to remove it to remove the battery? And any guidance on where to look for the actuator would be much appreciated, many thanks
 

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You need to pull the air filter off first. That’s the big black square box in the middle of your picture. It just pulls upwards and it’s on plastic ball and socket fixings. To remove it completely you need to unclip the air inlet hose front left. The part you want is down behind the left back corner of the air box by the round air pipe top middle left.

I am not an expert mechanic but know quite a lot about batteries and charging. BTW my battery 2013 Up comes out without moving the water reservoir. And for a reset you only need to remove the red battery connector for a bit, not remove the battery unless you replace it.

If you have a Halfords Type car battery charger, Just clip it on the battery and leave it for 24 to 48 hours see if that helps. Can't see from the trail how old it is but if it is less than 5 yrs, its worth a try
If you gat an improvement, do it for the next few weekends.

Then after a day, if you have a voltmeter start the engine with the lights on and you should see 13.8 to 14 Volts across the battery. That will check your alternator.

Then leave the car for half a day and check the battery with engine off and no lights on. If it’s in good condition it will show about 12.4 - 12.7 volts. There is not much more an amateur can do to test the battery capacity. If you take it to Halfords they will put a 10 second drop tester on it for you but In my experience they always show borderline on even a new battery. Maybe time to consider a local VW Non franchised specialist, You could ask for references in you area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
You need to pull the air filter off first. That’s the big black square box in the middle of your picture. It just pulls upwards and it’s on plastic ball and socket fixings. To remove it completely you need to unclip the air inlet hose front left. The part you want is down behind the left back corner of the air box by the round air pipe top middle left.

I am not an expert mechanic but know quite a lot about batteries and charging. BTW my battery 2013 Up comes out without moving the water reservoir. And for a reset you only need to remove the red battery connector for a bit, not remove the battery unless you replace it.

If you have a Halfords Type car battery charger, Just clip it on the battery and leave it for 24 to 48 hours see if that helps. Can't see from the trail how old it is but if it is less than 5 yrs, its worth a try
If you gat an improvement, do it for the next few weekends.

Then after a day, if you have a voltmeter start the engine with the lights on and you should see 13.8 to 14 Volts across the battery. That will check your alternator.

Then leave the car for half a day and check the battery with engine off and no lights on. If it’s in good condition it will show about 12.4 - 12.7 volts. There is not much more an amateur can do to test the battery capacity. If you take it to Halfords they will put a 10 second drop tester on it for you but In my experience they always show borderline on even a new battery. Maybe time to consider a local VW Non franchised specialist, You could ask for references in you area.
Awesome thanks, I couldn't remove the air box, seems to be bolted down, however I was able to take a pic of round the back, does this look like the potential culprit? I also took a better pic of the battery, you can see there is hardly any clearance. It's a 2017 TSI, maybe slightly different.

The car has only done 15k, and I don't think it's particulary old, surprised it looks so corroded.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Quick update, I sprayed it with WD40 a few days ago, let it set in, and I have been driving it around without any problems. So the actuator rod may have been seized - maybe...
There are currently no fault codes in the ECU. These previously did appear immediately when the throttle was pressed.
Based on quite abit of forum reading, ordered some WD-40 Specialist High Performance Silicone Lubricant. Appears to be a common issue, turbo actuator rods seizing. Will keep you posted ! Thanks
 

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Good update.

It’s a nasty environment for a moving component, at one end it is joined to the turbine housing (with gas passing through @ up to 950 degC).
 

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I'm guessing the WD40 or silicon won't last that long, as the actuator will get fairly hot. I'm glad it's freed up and working, but you may need a more permanent or persistent solution....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I suspect there isn't much of a solution otherwise VAG would have done it already. There is plenty of discussion around this online. I think routine maintenance would be the sensible approach. It's lasted this long before requiring attention (a little over 3 years, 15k), especially given the harsh environment & limited space the components are exposed to.
Potentially this could be avoided if action had been taken before now, interesting they don't treat this as part of the service. Maybe because there isn't a true fix they don't want to commit to trying something. Also if it is after 3 years they have the potential to make a tidy profit out of offering to replace the entire unit. I struggled to find the part brand new on its own. However, you can buy the combined part with turbo! Typical hey
 
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