Up Owners Club banner

1 - 20 of 141 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

This guide is for MPI! TSI may not be the same!

I had a chance to service my UP! this sunday morning so I thought I would share the knowledge to people who may want to do this to save some £££ at £260 a pop!

Step 1: Jack up your UP!

Using a jack (I used my old cheapo Draper trolley jack), jack up the car on the front under the marks indicated!



Use a Pair of jack stands to support the car






At this point the wheels will be off the ground. Stand back and give the car a little shake. If it falls over, thank your lucky stars you were not under it!




Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
First, the oil.

using a 19mm spanner remove the drain bolt from the pan



and watch the oil drain away.......




and watch the oil drain into the oil catch pan you put there!



while the oil is draining away, clean up the oil drain bolt. mine had green paint on.

I tried to get the washer off but failed and and to cut it off with a dremal. I would suggest that you obtain a new oil drain bolt with a new washer all ready attached before doing this job as it would save time, and you can then remove the used washer at a later date when you are not rushing around trying to finish the job!




for those playing along at home, the bolt is a M14x1.5






...and replace the new washer by hand. do not use a spanner to tighten until the bolt is fully screwed in. all you want to do is crush the crush washer, not strip all the threads on the sump!





Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Next the oil filter,

This was on very tight and I had to use a tool to remove it,

I dont know what the dealer did to get it on this tight, but I suspect foul play. To get the best grip, if you were to get it off by hand, I would suggest washing your hand with a cheap soap to remove and oils and grease and then clean the surface of the oil filter with rubbing alcohol or something to remove all grease / oil, then try undoing it with an ungloved hand.



never be tempted to jam a screw driver into it for more leverage. If you cant undo it, its better to be able to drive it to a garage and do it all over rather than pay for a tow truck!

It did give in the end!



When the oil starts flowing out, stop unscrewing and allow it to all come out.....


remove the oil filter. Here I can see that there is a part of the sealing surface that does not have oil on it.... hmm....



smear some engine oil onto the new rubber seal of the new filter....




...and clean the mating surface and check for debris with a finger.



and screw in the new filter, as a guide a try and do it as tight as I can with one hand. Never use a tool to tighten the oil filter!!!


Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Next, Spark plugs!

Locate the air filter housing......



remove the hose from the cleaner (mine was tight, be gentle!)



and tadah! the source of all our problems!



use a 10mm socket to remove the coil pack..





My coil packs were hard to remove, they just wanted some gentle pulling again.... These things look expensive...



remove the spark plug with a 5/8 (16mm) deep spark plug socket.




when you are able, remove the ratchet and remove the spark plug by hand. This will minimize any thread damage.

and hey presto! one spark plug



old v.s new spark plugs.



personally, I like to apply some coppaslip to the spark plugs so they do not bind in place and you have to take the cylinder head off, but this is down to debate.



install new spark plugs by pushing the new ones into the socket first to hold them, and screwing in by hand to hand tight, to prevent any mis-threading. The final torque / angle will be on the spark plug box.




Once the spark plug is at final angle / torque, push the coil pack back on and reattach 10mm bolt.



repeat twice!
Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Air Filter next!

Added 21/03/2018:

!!!This is MPI only, I have not seen a TSI.. yet.!!

Remove the air box by gently pulling on upwards. It is held in place by some ball and stocket type clips and fits around the air intake


With the air box removed, use a T20 screw driver to remove the self tapping screws



the top air filter lid comes away to reveal the air filter! ta-dah optional.



old v.s new.



replace with new air filter and re attach air cover lid (you dont want pictures of that do you?)



re attach the air filter assembly by locating the pin into the cam belt cover first and then push down making sure the clean air hole is on the throttle body.

Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Cabin filter next!

edit: some forum members have commented: Cabin filter only fitted on cars with AC.

Tool required: None.

edit2: yes there are holes for self tapping screws on the filter cover. mine (2012) did not have any screws installed, so don't worry about it.

Throw the new filter into the passenger foot well



Push in the clips in red.....



...and the cover will come out of its tab marked in red.



pull the air filter out. Note location of air flow arrow. Mine was from passenger to driver side (UK car)



I have a suspicion that black cabin filters are installed at the factory so the dealer can try and up sell you a new cabin filter! hah! take that capitalism! we are doing it ourselves!



Push the new air filter in place....



insert the tab into the air cleaner housing first and then push in the two tabs...



heres what was in my filter!




Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Dont forget to put the oil back in!



jam a small funnel in there.. why did they cast it with that bit of metal blocking your path?!!



I put in about 3 liters

added 21/03/2018:

To add the oil:
If you are not sure I would suggest measuring out 3.2ish liters using a
measuring jug (99p store?) then checking the oil level after waiting for
it to settle after 1 min~. Check to make sure it is in range on the dip
stick, if not towards the high level.

Then start the engine.
the engine may sound rattly for up to 10 seconds while the tappets fill
with oil. once the engine has ran for 30-40 seconds or so, turn it off
and check the oil level again and then top up to suit with the rest of
the oil.

dont throw the rest of the unused oil away! keep it in
the boot ready for when you check every fuel fill and top up
accordingly. (do you check the oil level don't you?!)



cont...

After all that, I could not be bothered to take pictures any more....

Remove the UP! from its jack stands

Reset the service counter by holding the "0.0/Trip" button, turning the ignition on electrical mode, release and press once within 20 seconds.

Go for a test drive.

Job done.

Any questions?


Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Just some tips out of all of this.

1. Obtain a new oil washer plug so you dont have to remove the crush washer from the bolt. These things, like most things to do with car servicing can be found on ebay for very little money. You only need one and a bag on crush washers. that way you dont have to waste time on your driveway!

2. Yes you do have to jack up your car. This is mainly to get the oil drip tray underneath,but it makes other things easier, such as removing the oil filter

3. fuel filter. There is no fuel filter on this car (2012 year at least). Why VW decided it was better for you to buy new injectors every time you get a large speck of grit over the fuel lines. Worst case your injector jams open and you melt your pistons. Its not as if VW have any other dodgy dealings going on anyway....


I have not used genuine VW parts in this case since I could not get the part numbers. The genuine parts are around about the same price as the other brand name parts I found anyway.



Oil <strike>the great debate </strike>It doesnt matter as long as it is VW50400, VW50200. a 4 Liter container will be enough.
Oil filter: 04E 115 561 H
Air filter: 04C 129 620 C
Cabin Filter: 1S0 820 367
Spark Plugs: 04C 905 606 (Genuine parts are NGK anyway, Use NGK 96596)

These part numbers were only what was in my car. VW part numbers may be revised by changing the last letter, e.g. oil filter suffix may become H-->I in the future.


Edited by: tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
947 Posts
Great guide Tom you've put a lot of effort into helping other members

The green paint on your drain plug that you mentioned is put on at the factory to confirm the bolt has been tightened to the correct torque.
You will find dabs of paint on a lot of the bolt heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I believe the original cabin air filter has activated charcoal to help with odours, so it's grey/blackish. The replacement part does not
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
since I replaced the cabin filter, I replaced it with a genuine VW part and I will see if it goes black again in future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
The only thing that helps me would be the cabin filter replacement (an e-Up! doesn't have any of that other stuff
) but many thanks for that anyway - as usual the 'owners manual' is no help at all on that point.

One small suggestion for getting underneath though :a pair of ramps would be much easier than jacking up and moving load onto stands. If low body clearance prevents the car from climbing the ramps (Polo doesn't like doing that !) then ramps can be made shallower with a length of scaffold board (with a couple of bricks under centre of plank if it needs to be very long).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Was the dab of paint on the head of the screw or on the thread? If on the head, it means it passed some quality control; if on the thread, it's a self-unscrewing prevention "paint" and may need to be reapplied.

I've only now realized that there is no fuel filter in 2012 cars, at least according to this guide... that's bad, isn't it? Shall I ask my dealer to try to install one, or I'm worrying too much?




Edited by: ptae2000e
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
ptae2000e said:
I've only now realized that there is no fuel filter in 2012 cars, at least according to this guide... that's bad, isn't it? Shall I ask my dealer to try to install one, or I'm worrying too much?
if you look in the left hand side of the engine bay there is a bracket with nuts welded to it, this is an idea place for the fuel filter to go as it is right where the fuel pipe goes into the fuel line.

The fact that these brackets are in my 2012 but not used seems to me like there used to be a fuel filter, but it was removed for some reason. most likely cost. As long as the car gets out of its warranty who cares right?




This is the fuel filter from my mx5 which at the time had approx 40k miles on it. I poured all the petrol from the filter into my steel tray. You can see all the grit that came out of it. This means that either VW does not believe this can happen (see image), or more likely they wanted to save the £20 on a filter and wait for customers to buy new fuel injectors from them in a few years time.

What do you think? Its not like VW have a reputation of fraudulent acts to save some money for themselves at the expense of others, until they got caught. Oh wait...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thank you - I'm a bit of an imposter as I have a Golf with the 1.0 TSI engine. I was looking for oil capacity as I guess it is much the same.
My last Golf, 2001 1.9 TDI, had the same drain plug and I never changed the washer or bolt in 15 years. Never dripped.

Lack of fuel filter is worrying. Going to have a look now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Yeah, the warranty period for my 2012 up ends up in February, I'm already thinking to exchange it for something else while it still has some value and doesn't need any repairs. I still think VW generally makes good cars, but they may have been a bit too aggressive with cost cutting on up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey, I'm new on here but wanted to say thanks for the guide. Really handy and way cheaper than taking it to vw for its "major" .Question though, how tough were your coil packs to remove? I've never owned a car new enough to have them but they don't want to budge. I got one off but didn't want to risk damaging the others. The whole font end of the car was rocking trying to get the things out! Surely it shouldn't be that hard? Is it worth getting a coil pack removal tool?
 
1 - 20 of 141 Posts
Top