Hello, new member here. It appears that RIX knows how to install these, is the previous image the correct one as to the wiring?So is this the way to go?
Any chance someone would want to sell me a working wiring set with instructions?
at first thanks for the load of information in this thread. I'm from Germany and there are lot of informations missing. I just bought an eco up bmt and wanted to retrofit the cruise control. I just checked the bcm, which is 90 index so no problem there at all. Can anyone of you tell me which index of cruise control and mfd controls i do need? could also provide the vin.
Further research into this mod for the 2017 High up TSI. (RHD, UK model.)
1. You only need the left hand stalk. The computer is driven from the steering wheel. Dismantling is not difficult.
One of the worst things (RANT MODE ENGAGEDabout the UP is the number of obvious switch blanks which simply should not be visible on a top of the range car. That VW see fit to provide labelled switches that do nothing is an insult and I don't wish to add to it.(RANT MODE TO standby.) You are of course free to leave the computer switch where it is. Just do not connect the wires to the right hand side connector.
2. For this reason, it will not be necessary to recode byte 17 bit 1 as it is already set.
3.The ecu, (j623,) is under the nearside front wing, supposedly accessible once the liner has been removed.
I shall find out when it stops raining.
4. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel to fit the new stalk. Once the necessary precautions have been observed, (disable the airbag by driving the Up! into a wall at > 20 MPH,) the airbag may alternatively be removed by disconnecting the battery, waiting an hour then turning the steering wheel through 90 degrees and releasing the clip which is a tight fit. A small mirror helps here to see what you are doing. then rotate the wheel 180 degrees and do the other one.
5. The upper shroud is removed first because the lower one is fitted with three screws, two of which are under the upper shroud.
6. Most independents have a VCDS that can do the programming. I borrowed a Ross-Tech from a colleague which worked with no trouble, scanning the whole car in a couple of minutes. It will take a few seconds to enable the system but it is strongly advised to then disconnect the battery for five minutes and then reconnect it once that has been done to ensure that the memory has been updated and the new configuration stored.
It is possible to remove the shrouds without having to remove the wheel. This makes removal of the airbag easier. I bought tools for removing the trim which worked very well. The next job will be to remove the right hand side sub dash panel and find a way to ease the BCM out. Removing the screws securing the fuse box is currently the first plan of action.Wires will arrive next week so there is time to remove panels and examine the job. One thing I did suggest is to take a short length of nylon lacing cord and tie it through the loop on the fuse box lid so that it can be removed without tools.
Stalk is now fitted. transferring over the old wiper stalk was very easy, the switch is held on the column by a little Torx screw underneath and all the connectors are designed to work by pulling the coloured tab away from the plugged in position and then pushing the locking tab in. If the contact is hard to pull then you have got it wrong, excepting the yellow airbag connection, which will be. just remember to pull the white central tab out fully first. Well, at least it looks as though it has cruise control, even though it isn't yet wired in.
Remove all the T25 Torx screws holding the inner wheelarch liner as well as the plastic rivet holding it to the lower shroud.
High in the wing is a carrier held in with two T30 Torx bolts, Loctite these when replacing. The carrier holds the ECU with two white plastic clips that are cooperative. The ECU can then be partially removed to release the plugs. It is the two plug type and the narrow plug is the target. Wire to pin 29 and route the wire into the cabin. That's the next bit but for now, Halaro's second drawing (post124) The encoding instruction in post 127 and these instructions work for a 2017 TSI High up.
Getting to the BCM is a major PITA. It is better to fiddle the plug out and work from there.
Dash centre out and right hand dashboard end and lower trim out. Drop the fusebox to get a hand up underneath to release the plug nearest the centre of the car. Wires 44 to 47 are now in and tomorrow I shall connect them to the stalk connector.
If you want to fit cc to a TSI fitted with a CHZA engine, you will need to connect the wire from J595/T16D/2 to J623/T94/56.
Ensure cruise is switched off before reconnecting. Using VCDS, set the two bits then disconnect the battery again for half an hour. Reconnect, scan the car and clear any errors.
Enjoy your cruise control.
Hey all, thought I would document the changes I make to my UP GTi as I seem to be doing a bit more than I originally intended to.
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Hi Guys im new here, im Bugg
just thought i would post this up here, i have few ideas for a wireless charging mount too!
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Has anyone fitted the E-Up! rear bumper light reflectors to their petrol Up!
I have bought a set but before I start drilling was wondering if anyone else has done this mod and if so any tips you could share would be great.
Just my 90ps tsi mapped to 135hp, and 250nm torque. Car is a completely different animal now, so rapid! A proper sleeper now..
When driving hard, MPG has gone down to 25mpg from the 30s, but driving normally there's no difference.
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