Sorry, but I don't understand your questionwhats your engine code?
You was right. The correct pin to my CYTA ECU is 56, a man that have tried to install in another Up! confrmed to me but he also told me that is not possible to activate the ccs in my car because the VW Brazil have changed the programming in this ECU version and even changing the coding using VCDS the ECU can't be able to read and to command the ccs. I don't know how far this is true, but if it is true, it is very sad. With the help of the Ciclo, a member of uk-polos.net, I change the position of fuse box wire to terminal 5 (SC5A), was supposed to be last mistake in my installation but the error continue to appear and doesn't work the ccs. I had a video showing what happens with the buttons and the main switch according of VCDS cable.the numbers on the new ones , that i have heard is 56 and 62 if it´s not the 29
you can´t use the polo ones since it´s a diffrent car and may have another ecu type
Well that didn't last long, I re assembled some of the car following the test drive and now its re assemble the drusie control doesn't work? Something similar to @matmaz ?Thanks @RIX I relocated the pin and hey presto. All works!
Couple of problems I encountered following the post.....
1. To unplug the ecu cables I had to angle grind the metal brackets off that stop them being removed. It sounds drastic but I spent 2 hours trying to figure it out? I think on assembly at the factory they must pop rivet it all together..
2. I was heavy handed removing my headlamp light switch and broke it. Basically I turned to the left to remove not right ( while being depressed)
3. I swapped my bcm to a compliant one and as yet I haven’t been able to adapt the remote? I think it may be as I have alarms due to the broken switch? New one coming soon...
Overall would I do again? In short yes and I’ve gained a massive insight and knowledge but **** it was daunting. It’s cost me about £130 including bcm and 3 days on and off tinkering..
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But it did work and I drove it a couple of miles and tested several times? Without stopping engine.. I then disconnected battery and re assembled some parts?disconnect the battery and try it again if it works 1 times , it´s ignition power that´s not iginition power but all the time, but looks like the ecu is saying wrong hole
clear all faults or it will not work
Do not forget to change the switcher. Part number is 1S0.953.503.ASGood news! More original cruise controls are retrofitted in Denmark - but unfortunately not in mine (yet). Hopefully it won't be long beforeI find someone in my areawho can fit it.
There has been some discussion between members on the Danish forum, becausemembers who have alreadyfittedoriginal cruise control in up!'s hesitate to share their knowledge about theprocess as they fear they might lose potential customers. I must sayI understand them, but I'm sure it won't be longbefore a guide is "leaked"
On another note.. As we've already confirmed, material costs aren't that high if you have the right BCM (Body Control Module). Modules with one of the following OE part numbers are compatible:
1S0 937 087
1S0 937 088
1S0 937 089
1S0 937 090
All High up's and BlueMotion up's have compatible BCM's, but if you'd like to be sure if you have the right BCM fitted, it is possible to find out in just a couple of minutes.
The BCM is fitted on the back of the fuse box. The fuse box is easy to find if you look up under the dashboard. I'm not sure about RHD's, but on LHD's it's located to the left of the clutch pedal. Now comes the tricky part! The gap between the fuse box/BCM and the firewall is quite narrow and so it can be fairly difficult to get a view of the part number. I used a small make up mirror and a flashlight, but it is possible to take a picture with a camera as well.
This is a picture that I've borrowed from the Danish forum, Vagcars.dk:
That's all for now
Edited by: RasmusTJ
It’s a real bitch of a job. You pretty much have to remove your lower dash, centre console and rhs trim. The plugs then have a locking tab/ lever that releases them. It took me a couple of hours first time but there’s no real short cut.I'm trying to retrofit cruise using a kit, and I need to access the two plugs behind the BCM (fuse box) to insert the additional wires. I cannot for the life of me work out how the drop the BCM/fuse box to allow me to get my hand behind it to release the plugs. Can anyone please help?
Thanks very much for your reply. I don't think I've seen a more inaccessible control unit in a car.It’s a real bitch of a job. You pretty much have to remove your lower dash, centre console and rhs trim. The plugs then have a locking tab/ lever that releases them. It took me a couple of hours first time but there’s no real short cut.
Once your lover dash is removed you can flex the fuse board and give you a bit more room. Just getting the bcm out is difficult let alone removing the plugs.
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Can you show me the way of the t16d/1 in the diagram, please? I need this to make sure the correct place to fit and I don't have this information.Maybe someone else will be interested. I am going to add cruise control to my e-UP. First of all you must check if the BCM supports cruise control. My BCM PQ25 has version Max4 H81 0744 with SW number 7E0 937 090 B, which is maximum level of equipment named also as High+ and supports CC. You can check this number like here, or use VCDS.
Do not forget to change the switcher. Part number is 1S0.953.503.AS
Steerling wheel control module should be like this 6RA.959.652.A
I will also add an electrical circuit that you may check, but it is in Russian, so use a translator.
Check connections and code Block 9 and Block 1 via VCDS.
Don't forget that you can code Block 1 only when the engine is off, for successful adoption of the encoding.
View attachment 4900
I have not had time to conduct the wires, but I’m sure that this is a working scheme.
On that sounds bad . The bcm has to come out and the wires pull through the gap. I found with the bcm snapped out of position the plugs went in easier.Thanks for all your kind help Deltabox. Unfortunately I'm deep in the crap with the job now. What a nightmare. I managed to snap the plastic fuse box mounting bracket when I flexed it to give more room as per your suggestion. Doing so did inadvertently clear access to the BCM but there is still almost no room to work as the BCM plug cables are so short, and I've no idea what I'm going to do about the bracket as the whole unit is hanging down loose on its wires now. A bigger problem is that I strained my back trying to get under the dash and now can't continue with the job. I can't even get back under to replace the BCM plugs, so the car is now immobilised. Instructions provided with the kit were crap too, totally inadequate and factually wrong in key respects. All in all the job has been a disaster from beginning to end and to anyone thinking of trying it I would simply say DON'T, unless you are a masochistic contortionist with tiny hands and time to burn. Totally p'd off with the car now.