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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Eibach’s arrived today from Tuner Shop, I did AT999’s trick of ordering in euros…
Test tube Tin Rectangle Tool Gas


…I donn’t really want to strip the original uprights down, so what are the current thoughts on top mounts for these?
 

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Mine also arrived today, I'm getting them fitted the end of next week. I'm letting the garage sort it out for me - the garage (Gwent VW) seemed to know their stuff and were ok to use the original top mounts as it's a new car.
The instructions weren't included, but I got eibach to send them electronically.
Can't wait👍
 

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Standard ones on a new car will be fine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thank you, I’ll use the originals, I just need to find time to fit them now 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Good stuff - arch spat delete ✔

What do people do about anti-rollbar drop links?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
What about them?
Do you leave the the drop links standard (now long) or get adjustable/shortened ones?

In my head the standard ones on a lowered car pre-load the anti-rollbar adding to the overall advantages of lowered sports suspension.
I've never even considered this before when lowering a car and wouldn't have this time if a mechanic at the dealership hadn't mentioned it.
 

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Surely, the ARB is not under tension until the wheels are no longer co-axial, owing to a roll force?
 

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Exactly. The only reasons for fitting shorter drop links will be a: the working angle angle of the ends of the arb will be incorrect at the lower ride height, or b: the links, or the ends of the arb will foul something. Unless the car is at different heights side to side you cannot ‘pre load’ an anti roll bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Exactly. The only reasons for fitting shorter drop links will be a: the working angle angle of the ends of the arb will be incorrect at the lower ride height, or b: the links, or the ends of the arb will foul something. Unless the car is at different heights side to side you cannot ‘pre load’ an anti roll bar.
Of course, sorry, I had torsion bar in my head not rollbar.
The ARB is free moving NOT tethered like a torsion bar so can't be pre-loaded.
 

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Co-axial just means that wheel centres are in a straight line. As soon as you corner, one wheel will be displaced up or down, and no longer be on the same straight line as the other, which is what twists the ARB.

Yes, you were thinking torsion bar! But not a "torsion beam axle", like at the rear, which is inherently an ARB.
 
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ARB position is only in relation to itself. Ideally the arb lays horizontal in the neutral position.

In most cases the drop links need to be longer, not shorter to achieve this, as the ARB stays in the same position in relation to the body, but the ARB mounting point on the suspension will be higher up than before, due to the suspension being shorter. It depends on where its located on the new suspension strut.
 

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Exactly. The only reasons for fitting shorter drop links will be a: the working angle angle of the ends of the arb will be incorrect at the lower ride height, or b: the links, or the ends of the arb will foul something. Unless the car is at different heights side to side you cannot ‘pre load’ an anti roll bar.
Depends on the location of the drop link tab on the new suspension, but if using standard shocks and lowering springs you'd want LONGER drop links, not shorter ones, in order to retain the ARB in the same orientation. When the car gets lower then the distance between ARB and mounting point on the suspension get further away from each other.
 

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Of course,- the arb should be in a horizontal plane at rest - and it depends where the arb is mounted on the subframe/shell (drop links pointing up or down) as to whether longer or shorter links may be required to achieve this.
 
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