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I hardly drive the car in the winter, so when i do drive i have been turning off the stop/start as i thought i did not want to put extra strain on the battery. However as you say the stop/start will only work if the battery is charged enough so i might as well leave it turned on. Plus of course in the traffic crawl i am on and off the clutch constantly, so again the engine will not cut out
Roll on the summer when i can have a few 100 mile round trips to Blackpool again and keep the battery fully charged.
 

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Well I picked the wee car up today. I took it on a good long test drive over various roads but concentrating on bumpy roads with broken surfaces. No noise or rattles of any kind. In addition I came along the roughest sections of roads to our house. Again nothing.
The car of course is firm and has pretty low profile tyres but it’s not overly bad at all. Under power in the peeing rain it got a bit skittish but much less so than say a Golf or Polo GTI and far less so than a Fiesta ST ...
So maybe I’m one of the lucky ones I’ve no idea.
Traction in the wet though was awful. It’s the low down grunt and cold tyres I expect. The car is on its original set of Goodyear Efficient grips and I think some better rubber would help a lot. 👍👍👍
 

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As previously said , drop the pressures to something like 30/30 or 30/28. It makes the tyre move a bit more, gets warmer and grips better. It's also good for damping down the ride. It's not the whole answer, because the tyres are crap, but it makes them so much more pleasant to use.
 
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Roll on the summer when i can have a few 100 mile round trips to Blackpool again and keep the battery fully charged.
Being an old softie (having lived in southern Iberia fo 6 months each winter, for several years), I run the heater on max and AC to demist, with lights on, the heated rear screen/heated mirrors and the heated seat on max, for a 1.5 mile round trip to Tesco etc. for "essential supplies". The car gets fully warmed up during this short trip (we have hills!).

After 3-4 such trips, the stop-start system does not kick-in.

After ONLY a 5-6 mile trip, say on the A30 (and I turn off most of the heavy battery drain stuff after 2-3 miles) the battery gets topped up to max again, and the next day the stop-start does its thing again.

Alternators are good, city cars are good! You don't need anything like 100 miles.... For those with a battery >5 years old, it may need changing....
 

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Thanks for that Steve. Re the battery, I was thinking more to do with me not driving the car much in winter. Most times i drive a 10 mile round trip to Tesco on Monday and that could be it. The car then stands idle for the rest of the week.

As for driving to Blackpool. I do that anyway. Im not making a special trip just to charge the battery, but that is a bonus of the trip.

Its nice to know you feel the cold the same as i do and that im not the only OAP on here who feels the cold. I always have the heater temp setting on max and the fan on 3. I still say i would have liked the heated seat to be warmer. As it is its just a very slight extra help to the cars heater.
 

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Your issue will be more about whether your battery will start the car in a cold climate after a period of not running much... You can always use a trickle-charger. You may need to buy a new battery more often if it only gets irregularly charged and run-down....

Your car usage doesn't really matter in the wider debate about wanting to disable stop/start or not. If the battery is bit low, the stop/start system keeps the engine running...:)

And as I said before, you must have asbestos long-johns - I have to turn down or turn off my heated seat as it makes me uncomfortably hot and twitchy after 10 mins :)
 

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Thanks for that appreciate it. I completely understand that any car with stiffer suspension and low profile tyres isn’t going to be Rolls Royce like. For me a hard but controlled ride is fine but rattles or knocks would drive me nuts....
Some say that the cars are built down to a price but 16K for a new car isn’t what I class as cheap. The Up is after all only a small car with a 3 pot engine.
But I’m going in with my eyes open and with a useful bit of information I didn’t have till this evening and I will test drive the car properly and if it’s not right for me I will politely turn it down.

Advice and information genuinely appreciated 👍👍👍

Meant to say the car has 11.000 miles on it .It’s a 3 door .
Crikey, these threads do wander off topic a bit!

Our new, month old, Gti is very noisy at the rear end - a distinct clonk more noticeable RH side and slightly on LH side and some horrible creaking noises - all disappear on smoother roads if you can find them!

Rippled concrete and less than smooth tarmac set the whole thing off though.

Take the car you are buying for an extended 'blinkers off' test drive before parting with any cash.

I don't buy the built down to a price rationale. We paid £17k for ours, and it is a long way from the most expensive car we have ever purchased, but £17k is still a chunk of money for a small car.
 

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Well, the question about stop/start was asked!

I agree that a clonking noise could be down to a definite fault, like dampers having loose internals, while some general noise when the suspension is being worked hard may be common, even on a new car with perfect bushes, unworn dampers etc.... Quite often the noise may be nothing to do with suspension as such, but something else that is not properly screwed down!
 

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One thing I noticed early on, is that if you don't get the "false floor" of the boot absolutely right in it's retainers at the front , then it can rattle and clunk horribly. Even when you think it's in correctly, try pulling it up & down to see if you get the same noise. Every time I have it out now, I take time to make sure it's back in place perfectly.
 

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I've had the whole lot out of the rear - load bay cover, false floor, flexi-floor, tools and spare wheel. All at the same time to avoid any doubt in my mind.

Seatbacks secured properly, belts buckled too.

Now booked in for January at dealers so I will report back.

Hope it doesn't become a saga.
 

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Your issue will be more about whether your battery will start the car in a cold climate after a period of not running much... You can always use a trickle-charger. You may need to buy a new battery more often if it only gets irregularly charged and run-down....

Your car usage doesn't really matter in the wider debate about wanting to disable stop/start or not. If the battery is bit low, the stop/start system keeps the engine running...:)

And as I said before, you must have asbestos long-johns - I have to turn down or turn off my heated seat as it makes me uncomfortably hot and twitchy after 10 mins :)

I drove my Smart car the same way in the winter and in ten years i only needed one new battery. Lets hope my UP GTI will be just as reliable in the same conditions.

As for the heated seats, with everyone saying how hot they are, i can only think that mine are not working as they should. I have driven buses with a heated drivers seat and Volvo cars. The heated seats on those vehicles really did roast you.

As i have said the cars heater is excellent, but the heated seats are next to useless, certainly on the lower setting one bar, you might as well switch them off as i can hardly feel any heat on that setting. I am not going to make a special trip to the dealer, but i will ask them to look at this next year when i take the car in for a service.
Your issue will be more about whether your battery will start the car in a cold climate after a period of not running much... You can always use a trickle-charger. You may need to buy a new battery more often if it only gets irregularly charged and run-down....

Your car usage doesn't really matter in the wider debate about wanting to disable stop/start or not. If the battery is bit low, the stop/start system keeps the engine running...:)

And as I said before, you must have asbestos long-johns - I have to turn down or turn off my heated seat as it makes me uncomfortably hot and twitchy after 10 mins :)
 

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This is being discussed on various threads both here and on the Facebook page. I'd like to try and get a more definitive idea of how widespread this issue is, so if you have a clunking noise from your rear suspension please let us know about it here so we can put some pressure on VW to sort it properly. Apparently they need 5 such reports before they take action.

So, three things please …

  • Please describe the noise and when it happens
  • Have you reported it to your dealer and what was their reaction
  • Has your dealer done any warranty work to remedy it, and if so what.
When you say ‘clunk’ what do you mean? A thud or a metallic sound like something is hitting metal? Mine thuds over potholes and rumbles like logs are in the boot over rougher ground. I’ll take it in after Christmas to get it looked at, if so many people have this issue then surely it’s just normal??
 

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Just to tag on here. Mine has been making this dull knocking from the rear since new. But I have put a good few miles under its wheels before coming to the conclusion that something is not right. Thanks to this forum and this thread. And also to John H. And and although I didn’t use his name I used an extract from one of his posts when explaining the problem to my dealer. Hopefully that is ok with him. So it’s going in to VW in a couple of weeks time. Because like them I feel I will need a courtesy car whilst they have my car.

watch this space but I will update when I have more.
 

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As above, in my case it was a bad damper. I told them this at the time, but they changed the top mount instead which did nothing. On the second visit I insisted a mech get under the car with a hand around the damper as I rocked the car. "It's the damper!", he said. Dohhh!

I think some dampers are worse than others but since I can still hear faint sounds when gently rolling down hill, from both sides, I concluded that the OEM dampers are basically cheap and nasty.

It all comes down to the precise noise you are getting. There are many possible causes, depending on how it sounds. Mine was a continuous muted rumble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Hi, quite sad really to see that this post I started 3 years ago is still ongoing, which essentially means the VW know perfectly well that their OEM shocks are below par, but they couldn't care less. My car had the rear shocks replaced twice under warranty cos I made sufficient fuss, but now 3 years and a mere 16,000 miles later they are getting noisy again. The car is out of warranty now, so I won't be approaching VW about it, I'll just learn to live with it as it is only on poor tarmac that it is really noticeable. A shame that VW spoil their products by penny pinching.

On a more cheerful note, here is a pic I took a few days back on a cold sunny afternoon down by the seaside.

Wheel Tire Car Window Vehicle
 

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I'm sure that they know by now! Not sure the dealers have been told....
VAG et al. just never admit to things like this, until it becomes unavoidable. Or emissions for that matter :)

If mine get noisy enough again, and while in warranty, I'll get them replaced. But that will be the same rubbish OEM parts, which in my case are Monroe (or possibly sometimes Sachs?)

If it's after warranty has expired, I'll just buy some Bilsteins or whatever looks good at the time - I'm not sure which Bilsteins are farmed out to cheap assembly in China etc, and which are the real, "Made-In-Germany" deal (if any these days!). I'll do my research as and when!
 

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Our second, 15 plate 75bhp High Up had it's rear shocks replaced under warranty at about 15000 miles, but all the others we've had (64 plate High Up, 2 x 2018 Tsi's, and my 2019 GTI) have all been ok. I do think that the shocks could be a lot better, but they're not making any noise like the ones that were replaced, they seem to be the same as they were when the cars were new...... for the moment.
 
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Mine is a 2019, but they normally source stuff like this from several suppliers, and the suppliers may have several manufacturing regions or subcontractors, so it may be pot luck which we get. Or batch issues...
 

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Mine is a 2019, but they normally source stuff like this from several suppliers, and the suppliers may have several manufacturing regions or subcontractors, so it may be pot luck which we get. Or batch issues...
Mine is a 2019, but they normally source stuff like this from several suppliers, and the suppliers may have several manufacturing regions or subcontractors, so it may be pot luck which we get. Or batch issues...
Had my rear dampers changed twice with the dealer within 5,000 miles.when the noise returned I fitted bilstein b4’s,15,000 miles later no problems at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Had my rear dampers changed twice with the dealer within 5,000 miles.when the noise returned I fitted bilstein b4’s,15,000 miles later no problems at all.
Interesting, I had singled out Bilstein B4's as a possible option. Do they stiffen the ride at all?
 
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