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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Car arrived to my home address on Friday by transporter, having a total of 6 miles on the clock. In the flesh, the Tornado Red looks very smart and I think that based on looks, I prefer it to the Pure White. However, the benefit of the Pure White is that it is pretty low maintainance and looks great without needing a lot of time and effort which can be a bonus. We already have a different white VW UP on the drive so having one a different colour is probably a good move.

I had planned to start prepping it on Saturday morning although we had a bit of snow and so it was late afternoon by the time this cleared up. Here's how it looked:




Car was pretty clean to start with. Removed the remaining wrapping that was left on and started with a pre wash. I used Bilt Hamber Auto foam for this mixed at 4% ratio in a pump sprayer.




Pressure rinse then followed ready for a wash using the 2BM. I used a microfibre madness wash pad for this with Auto Allure Luxallure shampoo.




Once rinsed after shampooing, the car was blown dry using my Air Blaster Sidekick ready for the application of Bilt Hamber Korrosol to remove the fallout. I did get a good amount of activity but it is difficult to photograph on a red car. This was then thoroughly rinsed again using the PW.

I deliberated whether to clay the car but as I planned to machine polish I went ahead with the claying. On reflection, I really needn't have bothered as the paint did feel smooth to begin with. I did nothing with the wheels at this stage as I intended to remove them later.



I had noted a few light marks here and there: one of the worst looks to be as a result of a trade plate or similar swinging on the back bumper during transit to the dealership.






I noticed a couple of marks on the roof and so decided on a machine polish. I used a paint gauge to check the initial paint thickness, these were in the range of 115-130um around the car.



I started with my least aggressive combo of Rupes White pad and Diamond Ultra Fine, this removed the fine scratches that were present and led me to believe that the paint is on the softer side. I did note some deeper random scratches on the roof but left these rather than removing more clear coat.

The car was masked appropriately such as door handles etc and I also masked some of the more profound contours to protect the paint where vunderable to strike-through (at a later date).






Once polishing was complete, I used Bilt Hamber Cleanser Fluid to prep the paint for LSP. I decided to use Carpro Reload for this, it is a product that I haven't used previously but it's been in the garage for a while and I knew that it would be much quicker than waxing. It went on really easily and added a noticeable slickness to the paint. I used a longer pile MF to remove any light streaks but it was trouble-free to use. Another product that I've had for some time is Sonax BSD, and so I topped it off with some BSD. I have read that it can be a bit fussy but it went on and buffed off really easily, but it may have been helped that the paint was really slick so it had no problem spreading and buffing up.

I used Swissvax Seal feed on the window seals. I then moved onto the glass which was treated with Gtechniq G1. As the glass was new, I used some Carpro Eraser to remove the factory chalk marks and also went over the entire glass with Auto Finesse Crystal; I've used this same method before and seems to work out fine. I gave the screen 3 coats and the rest of the glass 2 coats. I layered on top of the previous coat without removing (which I think is the correct way) and it seems to perform and last well. To remove the residue, I tend to use a cotton pad with the G2 remover before buffing off with Auto Finesse Crystal.

The black exterior trim was treated using Carpro Dlux on a cotton pad, an easily product to use and has performed well in the past on other vehicles. I also treated the head and tail lights before buffing off with the suede cloth.

After the above, I finished up with the wheels. Once off the car, I gave them a treatment of BH Auto wheels, but there wasn't any real trace of fallout which I suppose is expected.



I again used the 2BM and Luxallure to clean the rims. Once rinsed, they were blown dry and I used the Carpro Reload for the entire rim. I had planned to use Gtechniq C5, but I knew that I wouldn't be able to keep them dry for 12 hours after application. Secondly, it is likely that I'll be running winter wheels and so they'll be off soon enough anyway. Tyres were finished off with Auto Finesse Satin.

Whilst the wheels were off, I covered the disc brakes and calipers with cling film and coated the components and axle etc with Bilt Hamber Dynax UC. Prior to refitting, the hubs were treated to a smear of copper grease to aid future removal.



Once I'd finished, the weather didn't hold up for long. But here it is anyhow:







[/IMG]
 

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FS life's too short !! Its a cheapo city car with a few make it go faster bits on it, let the dealer wash it, sorry "detail" it then wash it yourself there after with a sponge and a bucket of warm soapy water, I would be pissed off with those marks though.
Any chance of coming up here and "detailing" my house as my wife's not much crack with that sort of stuff :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FS life's too short !! Its a cheapo city car with a few make it go faster bits on it, let the dealer wash it, sorry "detail" it then wash it yourself there after with a sponge and a bucket of warm soapy water, I would be pissed off with those marks though.
Any chance of coming up here and "detailing" my house as my wife's not much crack with that sort of stuff
Aside from machine polishing, it doesn’t take a long time to do any of it really. I wouldn’t plan on machine polishing it again for at least 3/4 years. Mine will still look great in 4 years whereas others will look really tired by then. Ultimately, it makes for a more enjoyable ownership, it also makes selling easy when the time comes as well presented cars always stand out.

The other bits make it easier to clean for future washes. The glass coating in particular makes wet weather driving so much better. Unfortunately, there will be marks like that on pretty much every mass-produced car including yours, it’s just how it goes.

Owners can do as much or as little as they wish, it’s their car and their money.
 

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Great job there, looks fantastic! Enjoyed the write up too, makes me all the more excited about receiving my tornado red 5 door! I will be doing the same with many of the bilt hamber products but also debating on wether I'd be using the clay bar or not. It is a shame that your GTI has yet again arrived with dealer inflicted markings, I hope most buffed out with little effort. Kudos on the air blaster, will make specific parts of the car very easy to dry. Speaking of which, how did you tackle the honeycomb trim on the front of the vehicle, or should I say how will you plan to keep it clean in the future? Just curious as I know it'll be one of the most time consuming pieces of exterior to detail correctly, especially when its going to be spending its first few months out on our horrible gritty highways getting covered in spray!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great job there, looks fantastic! Enjoyed the write up too, makes me all the more excited about receiving my tornado red 5 door! I will be doing the same with many of the bilt hamber products but also debating on wether I'd be using the clay bar or not. It is a shame that your GTI has yet again arrived with dealer inflicted markings, I hope most buffed out with little effort. Kudos on the air blaster, will make specific parts of the car very easy to dry. Speaking of which, how did you tackle the honeycomb trim on the front of the vehicle, or should I say how will you plan to keep it clean in the future? Just curious as I know it'll be one of the most time consuming pieces of exterior to detail correctly, especially when its going to be spending its first few months out on our horrible gritty highways getting covered in spray!
I personally wouldn't bother with the clay. The reason being that these cars haven't been sat around for too long. Using the iron fallout remover (Korrosol) is enough.

I wouldn't say all of them are down to the dealer, just transportation/handling along the way. They did buff out too easily really as I used a very mild compound, as so the paint must be quite soft and therefore will probably mark quite easily in future.

I used Carpro DLUX on the honeycomb trim and coated all of it. It keeps it looking 'black', stops the dirt clinging on and only needs topping up after 1-2 years. In future, if I use the Bilt Hamber Auto Foam as a pre-wash it will bring the grill up clean without any effort. Alternatively, I can use some smaller 'wheel wollies', but I definitely don't do that very often (probably only before a fresh application of DLUX). The air blaster comes in handy for drying those grills.

Through winter, I won't really do a sponge wash frequently. I normally just do a toucheless wash using the Bilt Hamber pre-wash. Simply spray it on and let it dwell for 10 mins and pressure was it off and the car will look spotless to most peoples eyes.
 

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Looks better then new!
Nothing wrong with detailing if you want to do it, may be a cheap city car but at £14,000 it’s still a lot of money.
Also l think it’s a good idea to look after the paintwork on a red car, as red paint seems to fade/deteriorate over time.
 

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I took mine shooting (game) on delivery day, threw my wellies in the back and sat on the tail gate to reshoe. I parked on a muddy verge down an unmarked lane and there is now some animal blood on the tyres(oops)

Then on day 8 of ownership somebody drove into it and it's having a new wing and some paint redone under insurance.

2 worlds eh?

Your detailing efforts look great though. I washed mine and put Dodo Juice Future Armour stuff on it, so I'm not really a car owning neanderthal!

🙂
 

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I found that with mine that even after detailing and coating with Gtechnic the paint was that soft that it still marked with bugs on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I took mine shooting (game) on delivery day, threw my wellies in the back and sat on the tail gate to reshoe. I parked on a muddy verge down an unmarked lane and there is now some animal blood on the tyres(oops)

Then on day 8 of ownership somebody drove into it and it's having a new wing and some paint redone under insurance.

2 worlds eh?

Your detailing efforts look great though. I washed mine and put Dodo Juice Future Armour stuff on it, so I'm not really a car owning neanderthal!

🙂
You’re right Doc, they need to be used. Mine is heading to the Lakes on Thursday so no doubt it’ll be caked in crap after that. That’s just how it goes. My school is in Swaledale and so there’s chance keeping a car clean on that commute.
 

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Great job there, looks fantastic! Enjoyed the write up too, makes me all the more excited about receiving my tornado red 5 door! I will be doing the same with many of the bilt hamber products but also debating on wether I'd be using the clay bar or not. It is a shame that your GTI has yet again arrived with dealer inflicted markings, I hope most buffed out with little effort. Kudos on the air blaster, will make specific parts of the car very easy to dry. Speaking of which, how did you tackle the honeycomb trim on the front of the vehicle, or should I say how will you plan to keep it clean in the future? Just curious as I know it'll be one of the most time consuming pieces of exterior to detail correctly, especially when its going to be spending its first few months out on our horrible gritty highways getting covered in spray!
I personally wouldn't bother with the clay. The reason being that these cars haven't been sat around for too long. Using the iron fallout remover (Korrosol) is enough.

I wouldn't say all of them are down to the dealer, just transportation/handling along the way. They did buff out too easily really as I used a very mild compound, as so the paint must be quite soft and therefore will probably mark quite easily in future.

I used Carpro DLUX on the honeycomb trim and coated all of it. It keeps it looking 'black', stops the dirt clinging on and only needs topping up after 1-2 years. In future, if I use the Bilt Hamber Auto Foam as a pre-wash it will bring the grill up clean without any effort. Alternatively, I can use some smaller 'wheel wollies', but I definitely don't do that very often (probably only before a fresh application of DLUX). The air blaster comes in handy for drying those grills.

Through winter, I won't really do a sponge wash frequently. I normally just do a toucheless wash using the Bilt Hamber pre-wash. Simply spray it on and let it dwell for 10 mins and pressure was it off and the car will look spotless to most peoples eyes.
Thanks for the great advice, I will definitely look into the carpro dlux you've used personally, sounds like a brilliant product to have such a long lifespan once applied. I may also have to look into the air blaster also as that would save much time, and also aid in less frequent contact which is always a bonus!

Touchless wash during the winter definitely sounds like the way forward also, very much looking forward to using the bilt hamber pre wash and surfex once the car is coated as I know it will literally dissolve into the suds and simply rinse off, can't recommend their products highly enough for how effective and long lasting they are once diluted to the correct ratios.

I have had brilliant news today that my order is now in stage 5a transit, so it won't be long now until I can finally crack on with my detailing, I honestly thought the day was never going to arrive!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Once the initial detailing is done, with the right products things are easier along the line. Gave our Move up! a bath earlier. It really didn't take long, the rims on this one have only previously had Carpro Hydr02 applied, and that product really could not be any quicker or simpler to use.

Decent amount of brake dust and grime to start with on the rims:


Gave the entire car, including the rims, a soak with the Bilt Hamber Auto foam via the garden sprayer. Then I have rinsed off half of the wheel here with the PW just to show the amount of grime that it has shifted:




Then anything that remained was taken care of with the Auto wheels and boar's hair brush. You can apply auto wheels straight onto the grotty wheels but I'd rather have the least amount of grime on there as possible before the brush touches it.



Check out the buckets, it's pretty easy to tell which is the rinse bucket, and thats just from the rims.

 

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Fabulous effort and end result - good job Squire.
 

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Great job. I’ve always wished I could use a machine polisher!
 

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Great job guys! Looking good and nice write up.



Great job. I’ve always wished I could use a machine polisher!
Marty....get a DA mate, there are guides all over the place. I need to do my 5 series again as Parks undone my good work LOL...so come xmas break i will run over it.

I learned with wee Dave KG's guide on detailingworld, he used to do the detailing in Flemington Id Estate with Gordon at Defined details, what the two of them dont know about detailing aint worth knowing.

My first attempt on my 3 series
Turned out rather nice, excuse the dull day (thought it was gonna rain) and camera phone pictures

 

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Discussion Starter #20
Great job. I’ve always wished I could use a machine polisher!
Head over to Detailingworld if you're after some info.

Learning to use a DA is much easier than a rotary and is a very handy skill/knowledge to have. However, a DA is far from idiot proof to use, and so the above site is well worth a visit. The results are all down to the preparation. Had I stuck with the pure white, I probably wouldn't have bothered with machine polishing as there isn't as much benefit to be seen, as white will hide any swirls a lot better. Black on the other hand is a different story.
 
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