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Discussion Starter #1
A few pics to tell the story of my Up! so far...
 

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I see you've been reading up on the forum... ;)

Looking good mate. A product like tar remover and a rag will remove the Climair advertising if this is something that you want to do. They aren't the easiest to remove, so a bit of perseverance is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am a big believer in tapping into the collected knowledge of the group 😁 so thanks to you all.
I think with the Climair script being the same colour as the car it goes quite well. Well, until it starts to annoy me and then it will be gone.
Some debadging and a bit of satin black vinyl is the direction I'm thinking of. Might take a while as there's a few busy weeks coming up. That three pot needs some gentle stirring.
Stay tuned for more pics. I'll document as I go.
Cheers
Ian
 

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That color looks great! I know it might not be to everyone’s tastes, but I wished VW did more of the dashboard/body color matching, like the fiat 500.
 

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It might be petty but I like the climair branding as it shows you've spent that little bit more to not get team halo deflectors which almost everyone who has deflectors has.
 

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I wouldn't overly disagree, mine was the same as Ian's only it also had a telephone number and email address too - it was a step too far for me.

It might be petty but I like the climair branding as it shows you've spent that little bit more to not get team halo deflectors which almost everyone who has deflectors has.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, I think we got Costa Azul Blue, Honey Yellow and Habanero Orange (Never seen one in the metal) amongst others as part of the facelift.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A bit of budget soundproofing was order of the day...
Was in Decathlon yesterday and saw that their cheapest Gym mats are 6.5mm closed cell foam and only a couple of quid each. Ideal for chopping up into all sorts of shapes and sizes. Bought a couple.

Plus, I have a loft with a load of spare foam pipe lagging and bagged insulation from the pre-combi defunct cold water tank.

So,
Following the advice on this forum and a bit on Briskoda.net I made an isolation mat for the spare wheel well 500x500 mm and also lined the well wall with 3 200x500mm pieces of the gym mat foam.
I traced a replica of the boot carpet in foam again (red) to sit over the spare tyre and under the carpet.

The box section at the rear of the boot I treated to some bagged fibre insulation making sure I kept the holes clear.

From the foam I cut some 20x100mm pieces to wedge between the dual height boot floor plastic frame and the metal work. I think I put 3 in each side.

Finally I wedged a chunk of the pipe insulation behind the bulb access panel on either side of the boot. There are wires and the inertia reel mechanisms that need to be avoided (give the belts a pull and make sure they run free) but a 150mm column of foam should jam in place nicely behind it all and do some dampening of noise touching metal on 3 sides.

Not yet done a full test in the rain but the noise reduction so far is staggering, there is now very little from the boot area.

Next I'm thinking I might put a bit of AluButyl and foam under the back seat and then move onto the front half.

Will be getting rubber floor mats and a boot mat which should also help.

Hope this is useful for anyone thinking of doing something similar.
Cheers
 

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I’ve also done some improvements to my up!’s boot, but never thought about the rear lights cables. Going to give it a try on mine too. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Part two of Operation Shhhhh last weekend consisted of:
A piece of foam under the back seat down against the metal. Something like 110cm by 20cm with a couple of cuts so it will sit around the seatbelt anchor points and won't move. Poke a finger through the holes in your seat cushion and check your isofix brackets aren't impeded.

A piece under each of the carpet mats - roughly the same shape as the mat outline and held in place with a squirt of spray-on carpet glue. Let it dry thorougly nice and flat before risking your carpets. Should take a bit more out of the noise coming up through the floor.

Last one was a bit of an experiment but to my ears seems to make a difference, and that was to add a foam strip right at the foot of the windsrceen. A 3cm wide strip will hide nicely out of sight when pushed down into the gap and you will want at least 130cm and then trim to fit to get a continuous run from side to side.

Next up: Some AluButyl on the underside of the bonnet and then an OE bonnet pad to keep it hidden / neat.

Started with the best of intentions to take some pictures and moved my phone out of the way so as not to glue it to the foam or carpet and then promptly forgot! Will go back and document at some point.

Hope that helps.
Ian
 

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Can I ask about the usb charger - did you need a second adaptor (the red bit in your pic) to make it fit whilst the phone holder is in place? Do you have a link? The reason I ask is because I couldn’t fit a usb into the whole with the holder in place. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The red/Orange adapter thing is a data blocker AKA a USB C0nd0m so that I can charge the phone and connect it via Bluetooth instead of it fighting me to use USB connectivity to the media unit.
The VW USB cable worked fine before the data blocker was introduced and I've not tried any other cables. USB is a standard fit so I can only imagine your smartphone holder isn't quite properly seated if you can't plug tbrough it.
If you can post a pic maybe someone can identify what's up.
Cheers
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Episode III: Revenge of the Shhhhh.

The Citigo OE floor mats are highly recommended as they'll keep your carpets clean and they are very effective at killing off noise coming up through the floor. I was really impressed with the quality / weight they are at least as good as OE JLR mats that cost £100+. If I was going to do just one thing to make the biggest difference it would probably be the mats (or maybe the £4 of foam in the boot ).

The jury's out on the boot mat, fits well and looks good but it's a closed cell foam affair rather than a heavy rubber thing. We'll see how it stands up to shopping, football kit, tools, junk etc.
I can always add a rubber insert to beef it up if needed. I guess it helps with the sound absorbtion as well.

Finally, the bonnet pad went on nice and easily over 4 stacked strips of Sikaflex butyl repair tape (100mm) rollered onto the underside of the bonnet skin.
Bonnet now closes with a nice thunk rather than a clang. Passes the "good enough" test. Clicks the pad into place, looks miles better.

The combo of the rubber mats and the bonnet work has seemingly taken a lot of the higher end rasp / harshness of the engine note away and just left the nice low bass notes. Mucho pleased.
 

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