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So from what people here have said it seems thst the computer/charge controller polls both the "gear" selector position and the position of the mechanical stop that slides into the gear train in "P" And if that isn't fully engaged it refuses to "handshake" the charger and start the charge. So i guess that if we have this problem we should look at the cable not fully activating the stop first - may just be adjustment. If not it could be either sensor/switch so a meter would help.
 
Then just unscrew 4 torx screws (2 up, 2 below behind selector cover), remove buttons and cigarette lighter part, the tabs are on top and bottom of left side, then remove selector cover (do not push the button) and unplug it. After that remove lover cover panel, it has 2 easily accessible torx screws and the rest is holding just on clips. Before removing selector, unscrew cable holding bolt (10mm) on the left side, then unscrew 4x 10mm bolts holding the mechanism, of course don't forget to unplug cable attached to it. After that remove selector mechanism and cable ending from the ball joint and attach it back to the cable - do not tighten screw yet, this needs to be done after assembly. Installation is reverse of removal, dont forget to pull cable towards you to engage P in the gearbox and tighten the screw holding the cable to the bracket. FYI - replacement of this mechanism FIXED my issue.
My Dad is over 70 and had a charging issue. Similarly a 2019 vehicle. VW dealer in Brighton took ages to find the fault and stated it was the gear lever fault so likely the same issue. They charged him GBP 1400 to fix it. He asked for the old parts but they refused, stating it was a health and safety issue !!!!! He’s been absolutely ripped off. Any thoughts?
 
Nonsense - they surely can't hide behind H&S for a gear lever? Get their reasoning in writing and go to trading standards.
I bet frozen chickens* are statistically more dangerous than gear levers, as a physical object, but you are allowed to pick one up in a supermarket....

*not to be confused with test_driver's cold thighs.
 
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That's a microswitch.
If faulty, a new one can probably be sourced online an soldered in.....
 
It would make sense that this is the switch that determines if the gear stick is in the "P position. Well, that being faulty costs me about 10 hours of labour and a new (very unsafe by the sounds of it) gear selector assembly.
 
Is it the thing called DCB?
I have the same issue on my E-up my 2020. When I contacted my local Vw agent (in Uddevalla) they had nerver heard of the issue and were reluctant to do anything but starting to troubleshoot on my cost. Completely unnecessary after reading your posts! So Bo99, please let me know where you got your E-up fixed.
 
I have the same issue on my E-up my 2020. When I contacted my local Vw agent (in Uddevalla) they had nerver heard of the issue and were reluctant to do anything but starting to troubleshoot on my cost. Completely unnecessary after reading your posts! So Bo99, please let me know where you got your E-up fixed.
Never heard of the problem? For what I know the switch has been updated many times over the years and a VW work shop knows this just by clicking in there computers. I got my VW fixed at Moses bil och lack in Tollarp Sweden. (1) Moses Bil & Lack Tollarp AB | Tollarp | Facebook
 
I have the same issue on my E-up my 2020. When I contacted my local Vw agent (in Uddevalla) they had nerver heard of the issue and were reluctant to do anything but starting to troubleshoot on my cost. Completely unnecessary after reading your posts! So Bo99, please let me know where you got your E-up fixed.
Never heard of the problem? For what I know the switch has been updated many times over the years and a VW work shop knows this just by clicking in there computers. I got my VW fixed at Moses bil och lack in Tollarp Sweden. (1) Moses Bil & Lack Tollarp AB | Tollarp | Facebook
 
Thank you Bo9988! Obviously a lazy VW-shop here in Uddevalla. If necessary I will go elsewhere. But I found out that the issue disappears if I leave the P-gear mechanism unloaded by firmly setting the parking brake before I release the footbrake and engage the P-position. As long as it lasts...
 
Thank you Bo9988! Obviously a lazy VW-shop here in Uddevalla. If necessary I will go elsewhere. But I found out that the issue disappears if I leave the P-gear mechanism unloaded by firmly setting the parking brake before I release the footbrake and engage the P-position. As long as it lasts...
How did it go? I have a Seat Mii electric with exactly the same issue. I believe its basically the same car. Been able to charge it with this issue for a while but now it always flash yellow no matter what i do. Im able to charge with ignition on though..
 
I have tried another Swedish VW workshop on this issue. They acknowledge the problem and quotes me about SEK 9000 (=650 GBP, weak krona) for gear lever exchange and reprogramming the on-board charger. Problem is that my car is still charging if I leave the P-position unloaded by pulling the handbrake properly. And why is the dashboard indicator showing correct? Could it be a software problem only? I have asked if there is an extra sensor in the gearbox but that seems to be at highly guarded company secret. It seems to be an awful lot of money to spend on just trusting the VW workshop. The problem is possible to live with for now, but will it get worse? Anyone willing to advice me based on personal experience/knowledge?
 
I have tried another Swedish VW workshop on this issue. They acknowledge the problem and quotes me about SEK 9000 (=650 GBP, weak krona) for gear lever exchange and reprogramming the on-board charger. Problem is that my car is still charging if I leave the P-position unloaded by pulling the handbrake properly. And why is the dashboard indicator showing correct? Could it be a software problem only? I have asked if there is an extra sensor in the gearbox but that seems to be at highly guarded company secret. It seems to be an awful lot of money to spend on just trusting the VW workshop. The problem is possible to live with for now, but will it get worse? Anyone willing to advice me based on personal experience/knowledge?
I parked uphill and I could charge for some days and then I had to have the ignition on for charging. I feel you with the 9 000 kr. I had my insurance so only 1 500 kr for me. In my case I just have to have the charging working 100% at home. I just have to drive to work every early morning and the car is the only option. If you look at the picture above in a comment I assume that they replace the circuit board and don't solder in a new switch. I don't even think that they replaces only the circuit board with the switch. Maybe it's a hole plastic thing that is replaced.
 
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