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Show me your Apple car play.

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#62 ·
Hi Raj, I also just installed the W903, similarly to how you installed it. However, I am experiencing issues with the unit. It keeps restarting, suggesting it's not getting sufficient power supplied. Might it have something to do with the USB C - USB A cable that I use? Has yours been restarting by itself too? Thanks. - Lodewijk
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
lodewijk said:
Hi Raj, I also just installed the W903, similarly to how you installed it. However, I am experiencing issues with the unit. It keeps restarting, suggesting it's not getting sufficient power supplied. Might it have something to do with the USB C - USB A cable that I use? Has yours been restarting by itself too? Thanks. - Lodewijk
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Hi Lodewijk. Mine has never done that and guess it could be the cable? Do you have another cable to try? What year is your car? Maybe try using 12v (ciggie lighter) adaptor if you have one to hand to test too.

Raj
 
#64 ·
It's more likely to be the USB source's current capability than the cable. I think the dashboard USB in the Up! is a very old design, and probably can't supply more than an amp or two.

You can buy 5V "bucks" that convert 12V to 5V but with higher current ratings for not a lot of money that could be neatly fitted somewhere.
 
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#65 ·
Raj said:
Hi Lodewijk. Mine has never done that and guess it could be the cable? Do you have another cable to try? What year is your car? Maybe try using 12v (ciggie lighter) adaptor if you have one to hand to test too.

Raj
Click to expand...
Thanks for your prompt response. I'll have to get myself another cable to see if that makes a difference. My car is from 2017. I might give the 12v a try, but that ruins (in my opinion) the clean aesthetics of the installation. I'd rather not have any cables dangling around. Would be a bummer if the USB port is not able to provide sufficient power.
 
#66 ·
freemansteve said:
It's more likely to be the USB source's current capability than the cable. I think the dashboard USB in the Up! is a very old design, and probably can't supply more than an amp or two.

You can buy 5V "bucks" that convert 12V to 5V but with higher current ratings for not a lot of money that could be neatly fitted somewhere.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response. Yeah that's what I was thinking too. But it surprisingly seems to work for plenty of other people. I might try the 5V bucks as a last resort, because I don't like cables dangling around.
 
#67 ·
Is the rear camera powered from the unit?
Even if you don't want dangling wires, it's worth a few quid to do a test with a 12v to USB cig adapter (check its current capability though). If bought from Amazon you can return it.
 
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#69 ·
The recent poster said he's using a USB-C to USB-A cable, so the cable will have a chip embedded in it to identify the power that the cable can handle. Sure, it may be a faulty cable, but it seems unlikely that a USB-C cable can't supply enough current. My money is still on the Up!'s USB source being marginal - these pre-date USB-C. Another easy test is to plug the cable and screen unit into a home power plug that is marked as being high current, usually supporting USB-C ports as as USB-A ports on it.
 
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#73 ·
Simon Audi said:
Hi

So my Unit arrived today - Fitted the main head unit and the reverse camera - but not routed the reverse camera wire correctly yet.

Used the standard Mount from the phone cradle - just the rear part.

I then took the sticky mounting bracket apart and used the part that mounts to the screen with the bolt.

I made up an Aluminium plate - around 25mm x 45mm and used a mirror sticky pad to mount it to the original phone holder.

I did drill and tap a M5 hole to use the original mount screw (had to shorten it and fitted a lock nut also)

Took around 2 hours so far... need to route the wire and tap the reverse light tomorrow.

For the camera - i spent maybe 1 hour (of the 2) trying to fit inside the car - but did not like it - so mounted underneath the overhang above the numberplate.

I took out one of the number plate lights and undid the 4 (5?) Torx screws at top of bumper and fed the wire up through light socket and out top bumper.

Then stuck the camera in position and refitted the light - just fitted - no bumper mods.

Refitted the screws at top.

Need to take out rear light and run the cable tomorrow.

Really pleased

I did fit some sticky feet under the unit - to lift it up on the bracket - to keep it under a little tension so it does not shake when driving.

Also fitted an Automatic Light Switch with seperate sensor (10 minutes)..

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Hey Simon where can I get this screen for my vwUp by the way is it a copy and past from the existing Garmin?
 
#77 ·
I'm not understanding this... It looks like a normal USB type-A socket to me, which should accept any common type-A plug on a lead (it only goes in one way round - if you twist it 180 degrees, it won't fit, unlike type-C or apple lightning plugs which work either way round in the right sockets.)
 
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#78 ·
freemansteve said:
I'm not understanding this... It looks like a normal USB type-A socket to me, which should accept any common type-A plug on a lead (it only goes in one way round - if you twist it 180 degrees, it won't fit, unlike type-C or apple lightning plugs which work either way round in the right sockets.)
Click to expand...
It's hard to see in the photos, but the socket appears to be recessed about 20mm (you can see this a bit from the 2nd image) so no cable will fit in, as the plastic hits the slot.

If you compare it to the bracket in this post https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/thre...ds/up-2018-retrofit-phone-cradle.8709/#lg=attachment_xfUid-2-1752703178&slide=0 there's clearly a usb port at the top of the socket, whereas mine is different.
 
#79 ·
freemansteve said:
I'm not understanding this... It looks like a normal USB type-A socket to me, which should accept any common type-A plug on a lead (it only goes in one way round - if you twist it 180 degrees, it won't fit, unlike type-C or apple lightning plugs which work either way round in the right sockets.)
Click to expand...
Well I removed the plate this afternoon, the USB mount had dropped out of place, I pushed back into the mount and now it all looks fine.
 
#80 ·
Raj said:
The dash cam is only on whilst it’s powered up. Power is taken from the usb connection on top. I purposely chose this unit as it is 5v 2.4a I think?

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View attachment 11970

I created the mount by purchasing another mount, filling off the nibs and sticking a magnetic mount to it.

View attachment 11972

I also fabricated a section which clips in to the unit with the corresponding metal plate attached for the magnet mount. This was using a piece of eBay plastic and hacking off the connector from a generic phone mount thingy. You can cut up the one supplied but I chose not too.

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I might have over complicated things but I was fussy about where the unit sits and wanted it to be removable in between journeys

Will tidy it up when I have time but it works really well for me. Hope this is enough info
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Hi,
I ve been looking for something like this. Did you 3d printed it? do you happen to have the files?
Is it possible to share them?
 
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